Chiang Mai

Getting Here & Around

The compact Old City can be explored easily on foot or by bicycle. The system of one-way streets can be confusing for newcomers, but the plan keeps traffic moving quite effectively around the moat, which is crossed by bridges at regular intervals.

By Air

Thai Airways has frequent daily flights to Chiang Mai from Bangkok (1 hour 10 minutes) and two direct flights daily from Phuket (1 hour 50 minutes). In peak season, flights are heavily booked. Bangkok Airways has near-daily flights here from Bangkok. Three budget airlines offer flights for as little as US$50: Orient Thai Airlines, Air Asia, and Nok Air. Chiang Mai International Airport is about 10 minutes south of downtown and a B100 taxi ride. Songthaews run to the city center for around B50.

By Bus

VIP buses ply the route between Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal and Chiang Mai, stopping at Lampang on the way. For around B400 to B600 you get a very comfortable 10-hour ride in a modern bus with reclining seats, blankets and pillows, TV, onboard refreshments, and lunch or dinner at a motorway stop. You can take cheaper buses, but the faster service is well worth a few extra baht.

Chiang Mai's Arcade Bus Terminal serves Bangkok, Mae Hong Son, and destinations within Chiang Rai Province. Chiang Phuak Bus Terminal serves Lamphun, Chiang Dao, Tha Ton, and destinations within Chiang Mai Province.

By Car

The well-paved roads around Chiang Mai are no problem for most drivers—even the mountainous Mae Sa route north of Chiang Mai is perfectly drivable. However, Thai drivers are notoriously reckless and accidents are frequent. Two major car-rental agencies in Chiang Mai are Avis and Hertz; Budget has a good range of four-wheel-drive vehicles. Many hotels have motorcycle rentals.

Avoid driving in the city during rush hours, which start as early as 7 in the morning and 3 in the afternoon, and pay special attention to no-parking restrictions (usually 9 am to noon and 3 pm to 6 pm). Parking is prohibited on many streets on alternate days, but the explanatory signs are mostly in Thai. Your best bet is to note on which side of the street vehicles are parking. Chiang Mai's traffic police are merciless and clamp and tow away vehicles parked illegally. Parking lots are numerous and charge as little as B20 for all-day parking.

A car and driver is the most convenient way to visit the hard-to-find temples outside the city. Car-rental agencies also handle car-and-driver hires.

By Taxi, Tuk-Tuk & Songthaew

Metered taxis, which can be flagged down on the street, are being introduced gradually in Chiang Mai, replacing the noisier, dirtier songthaews. The basic taxi charge is B30; you'll pay around B50 for a ride across the Old City. Tuk-tuks are generally cheaper, but you are expected to bargain—offer B20 or so less than the driver demands. The songthaews that trundle around the city on fixed routes are the cheapest form of transport—just B15 if your destination is on the driver's route. If he has to make a detour, you'll be charged an extra B20 or so. Settle on the fare before you get in. If your Thai is limited, just hold up the relevant number of fingers. If you hold up three and your gesture evokes the same response from the driver, you'll be paying B30.

By Train

The State Railway links Chiang Mai to Bangkok and points south. As the uninteresting trip from Bangkok takes about 13 hours, overnight sleepers are the best choice. The overnight trains are invariably well maintained, with clean sheets on rows of two-tier bunks. Spending a few extra baht for a first-class compartment is strongly recommended. In second class, you may be kept awake by partying passengers. Trains for the north depart from Bangkok's Hualamphong Railway Station and arrive in the Chiang Mai Railway Station. First-class fares from Bangkok to Chiang Mai range from B1,300 for a sleeper to B600 or B800 for a day train.