Prasat Hin Khao Phanom Rung

Prasat Hin Khao Phanom Rung Review

The restored hilltop shrine of Prasat Hin Khao Phanom Rung, 65 km (40 mi) from Buriram, is a supreme example of Khmer art. The approach to the prasat sets your heart thumping—you cross an imposing bridge and climb majestic staircases to the top, where you're greeted by a magnificent reclining Vishnu lintel. This architectural treasure hit the headlines when it mysteriously disappeared in the 1960s, then reappeared at the Chicago Art Institute. After 16 years of protests it was finally returned to its rightful place. Step under the lintel and through the portal into the double-walled sanctuary. Intricate carvings in a style similar to those found in Lopburi cover the interior walls, and in the center of the prasat stands the great throne room dedicated to the Hindu Lord Shiva.

Built in the 12th century under King Suriyaworamann II, one of the great Khmer rulers, it was restored in the 1980s at a cost of $2 million. It's one of the few Khmer sanctuaries without later Thai Buddhist additions. For insight into this and other nearby Khmer architecture it's well worth having a look in the visitor center, which can be found beyond the souvenir stalls, along the shaded path where you catch your first glimpse of the prasat. The center has commendably clear information; the exhibits that shed light on the magnificent stone carvings found at Phanom Rung are particularly recommended. In the gardens outside the temple area, don't miss the huge bamboo tree creaking in the wind.