This expensive but worthwhile Chinatown classic takes you straight to China, or more specifically, to Hong Kong, with excellent Cantonese roast meats—try the deliciously fatty duck—and soft, delicious goose foot-and-abalone stew. Don't pass up the delectable fried pancake with eggs and plump oysters; dim sum is also impressive. The restaurant is crowded and bustling, and service is authentically brusque. Like many of the neighboring Chinatown restaurants, the place hawks the inexplicably prized shark's fin and bird's nest dishes, but here as elsewhere, they're not worth the sky-high prices—both taste essentially like slightly more resilient glass noodles.
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