This eatery doesn't look special -- it resembles a small, open-air warehouse -- but it's done a good trade since opening nearly two decades ago, well before the Phra Athit area became trendy. A boardwalk along the river runs past the restaurant, and a pier where the express boats stop is off to one corner, so there's plenty of activity to watch as you eat. Try to secure a waterfront table where the breezes and views are better. The tom khlong pla salid bai makham awn, a hot-and-sour soup made from local dried fish, chili, lime juice, lemongrass, young tamarind leaves, and mushrooms, is a full frontal attack of seasonings, and is delicious. Less potent, but equally good, are the gai hor bai toey (deep-fried chicken in pandanus leaves) and hoa mook pla (a curried fish custard thickened with coconut cream and steamed in banana leaves).
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