An alley near the National Library leads to this off-the-beaten-track restaurant on the Chao Phraya. Kaloang might not look like much, with its plastic chairs and simple tables on a ramshackle pier, but it's a local favorite and worth the effort—and leap in imagination—for fantastic seafood on the river. Breezes coming off the water keep things comfortably cool most evenings. The generous grilled seafood platter is a bargain, as is the plate of grilled giant river prawns. Try the yam pla duk foo, a grilled fish salad that's rather spicy, but goes great with a cold beer. Also notable is the larb goong, spicy ground shrimp salad with banana blossoms.
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