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Busan overflows with restaurants and cafes of every description. Portions are large and prices are reasonable so it's as easy to indulge in fine dining as it is in street food—options at both ends of the price scale are most likely serving local seafood specialties, particularly in the area around the Jagalchi Markets.
Opened in 1964 and known for its premium cuts of Korean hanwoo beef, this upscale barbecue restaurant is regarded as one of the finest in the city. The traditional u-shaped hanok building it calls home adds to its deep charm. Just make sure to bring a mighty credit card, or plenty of cash.
Situated on the newly developed cafe street behind the old Haeundae Station, this charming coffeehouse offers up an array of coffee and tea drinks, along with tasty desserts. Enjoy them on either of the cafe's two floors or its small outdoor balcony. Their Honey Bee Latte is worth the trip alone, and unlike most Korean coffee joints, they're open in the morning.
Occupying the first floor of a renovated hospital building, this cool cafe offers plenty of exposed-brick hipster vibes to go with its excellent coffee and dessert items.
This booming barbecue joint near Kyungsung and Pukyong universities offers amazing bang for your buck. The restaurant specializes in thick cuts of water-aged samgyeopsal (pork belly) at low prices. It's no wonder they're always slammed.
Gaya Milmyeon. A refreshing bowl of spicy or sour Milmyeon (cold wheat noodle dish) is just the thing on a swelting summer day. Milmyeon is a local specialty and is rumored to have been invented during the Korean War, when people from the northern provinces brought their noodle-making skills to Busan and used flour brought in by the US army. Milmyeon is a little chewier than other types of noodles and served with various toppings, like boiled egg and cucumber. It's a popular street food and the price is just right.
Located off a side street in Seomyeon Market, this is one of the most famous kalguksu (knife cut noodles) joints in the city. The broth is savory and clean, and the noodles are all made the old-school way: by hand. You can choose between mool (with broth) or bibim (no broth, with chili paste). Look for the line.
This perpetually busy restaurant been serving up nakji-bokkum (long-legged octopus) to Busanites for a handful of years now, and has quickly earned a reputation as one of the best joints in town. Customers can choose between three levels of heat (spicy, medium, or mild), as well as add favorites such as saewoo (shrimp), or for more adventurous eaters, gopchang (pork intestines) to the mix. Make sure to wash it all down with an ice-cold bottle of beer for maximum effect.
Situated on a back street in an old house, this hip, cozy space not only serves up a friendly atmosphere, but also the best vegan food in town. There is also a terrific selection of wine, beer, and cocktails, as well as live music on Saturday nights. Home is the place to go for a very unique experience in Haeundae, and the English-speaking staff is as friendly as it gets.
Situated near the famous 40 Steps in the historic Jungan-dong neighborhood, this all-you-can-eat tuna sashimi restaurant is worth the trip for not only the succulent slices of fish, but also the intimate ambience. Make sure to sit at the cozy bar and treat yourself to the deluxe set (₩50,000), while sushi Chef Kim transports you with cut after cut of amazing tuna and more.
Housed in a hanok (traditional house) and tucked off the street by a short path lined with Korean pottery, Jeonglim is where Korean ladies lunch. While not completely vegetarian, the restaurant does specialize in vegetable dishes. The dolsotbap (rice dish in a hot stone pot) is prepared with locally grown, organic vegetable and is the perfect antidote for last night's heavy Korean barbeques. The meals start with a warm juk (rice porridge) flavored with pumpkin and is followed by what feels like an endless parade of small plates, like immaculately presented pickles and one-bite pajeons (pancake-like dish). The location can be a little difficult to find, so it is best to catch a taxi from nearby Dongnae station.
Slip into any one of La Bella Citta's three dining areas or the outdoor grotto dotted with fairy lights and you'll quickly realize that it's not just the excellent food that draws in the well-dressed couples, expats, and family. These spaces have been designed to feel miles from the busy stretch of bars just meters away, along the bustling Gwangan beach. The art spaces on the second floor house the most sumptuous dining areas and give lots of privacy. The creamy pasta carbonara is served perfectly al dente and margarita pizza was a standout.
Looming on the far north end of the beach, this complex is dedicated to the glory of seafood prepared in its freshest form. The first floor is a cavalcade of tanks manned by strong women who will net the sea creatures you desire and dispatch them on the spot; you're then sent to a restaurant upstairs, where everything is served sliced up on a table, along with classic Korean side dishes and maeuntang, a peppery soup made from the bones and heads.
Perched on the 43rd floor of the Lotte Hotel, the Mugunghwa offers lucky diners sweeping views of the city and the distant hills. This elegant restaurant has five private rooms (for four to fifteen diners) in addition to its light, spacious main room. The cuisine emphasizes traditional Korean dishes, like galbi (grilled short ribs) and kimchi. The menu always offers courses that feature a good selection of local and seasonal fare, like Yeongdeok crab and seasonal fish. There's also an excellent Korean liquor list and a decent selection of wines.
It's impossible for any seafood lover to visit the Jagalchi fish market and not indulge in a freshly caught meal; the OASE Seafood Buffet is a family friendly and easily accessible place to start. Located on the 5th and 6th floors of the market building, the seafood stalls on the floors below are culled daily in order to create about 100 dishes; choose from Japanese sushi and sashimi, western-style dishes like pizza and pasta, or more traditional Korean fare. The harbor views are lovely but only for a few lucky tables; it's possible to call ahead and ask to reserve one. The restaurant closes at 9pm, so this is not the spot for late-night dining.
Stroll down the up-and-coming cafe street behind the old Haeundae Station to find this popular barbecue joint that will make you feel as if you're sipping soju in a Korean drama. With fresh cuts of both beef and pork, it's guaranteed to please carnivores without decimating their wallets. The tabletop grills also come with side pans for cooking scrambled eggs and kimchi.
Busan has a ton of Western-style coffee shops but for a taste of traditional Korean tea culture, head to Poong-Kyung. Traditionally dressed servers, with all of the poise that the costume deserves, whisk up cups of mulcha (powdered green tea) tableside—keep in mind that a cup should be drunk in three sips. Yu-cha (citrus tea) is also refreshing. A more modern alternative would be a sweet pumpkin latte and, for the less adventurous, black coffee.
Situated on the flank of Geumnyeonsan mountain with commanding views of the city, this three-story coffeehouse has a classic feel, with chill music, brick walls, and scrumptious baked goods.
The Gwangalli branch of this popular barbecue chain sits a stone's throw from the beach and is always hopping. Seorae promises 500g (1.1 pounds) galmaegisal (pork skirt meat) for prices starting at ₩15,000, guaranteeing a steady crowd of young locals. The attentive staff will keep the meat sizzling at your tabletop grill, and as a bonus, most of them speak English.
If you're shopping in the area, this is a solid place to sit down and grab a bite. The Food Hall offers a good range of options: there are 10 outlets serving Japanese dishes such as cold soba noodles and donburi and Korean favorites like bibimbap and cold noodles. Plates are purchased using a meal ticket system—buy tickets at the main cashier to purchase meals at any of the counters. Though the department store closes at 8 pm weekdays and 9 pm on weekends, the food hall stays open until 10 pm.
While dumplings are easy to find in Busan, no one comes close the sublimity of Sinbalwon, a tiny spot on the Chinatown Street across from Busan Station. Whether you like them fried golden brown or tenderly steamed, this popular joint delivers the goods and then some. There is always a wait, so bring plenty of patience along with your appetite.
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