If Austin Powers designed an Indian restaurant, he would probably come up with the groovy lounge atmosphere of this waterfront restaurant. The waiters—who virtually recline on side couches to take orders—and the chefs working in the open stainless-steel kitchen have a serenity that comes from unhyped professionalism. Some of the food is presented in styles borrowed from other cultures; sample the Indian tapas menu, or slightly larger entrées served in Japanese crockery. All the main dishes come with dhal, basmati rice, a daily side dish, and baby naan. Meals start with stylishly rolled papadam (deep-fried lentil crackers) and three chutneys.
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