If you're looking for off-the-beaten-track "soft" adventure, head for the provincial capital Phongsaly, in the far north of Laos. It's a hill station and market town nearly 5,000 feet above sea level in the country's most spectacular mountain range, Phu Fa. Trekking through this land of forest-covered mountains and rushing rivers may be as close as you'll ever get to the thrill of exploring virgin territory. You can arrange for a guide (a must) through any of the hotels or guesthouses in town, or with Diethelm Travel or Lao Youth Travel back in Luang Prabang.