Carp dishes—yes, carp—and delectable mountain vegetables maintain Yuki's highly venerated reputation. The kitchen also serves ayu, or river smelt, and other specialties, but for only ¥2,800 you can get the teishoku, a gourmet carp course that offers a smattering of everything a fat and happy carp can become: there's chewy carp sashimi (with a wonderful lemony mustard-thyme dipping sauce); tender deep-fried carp; carp steeped so long in soy sauce, sake,
and brown sugar that it is dense and even slightly dry but very delicious; and carp boiled in a tangy miso soup until it's almost flaky. This is bona-fide stamina food, and tastes way better than you might think. The dining room is chock-full of old farm implements, and there's even a stream burbling near your feet. Come early, as they close at around 7 pm, and after 3 early dinner is served by reservation only.
271–4 Ushiroda, Tsuwano, Shimane-ken, 699-5605, Japan