This charming hillside ryokan has been around for more than a century, and it owes it longevity to its having the best views on the island. Every room is blessed with a panorama of the famous gate, the shrine, and the pagodas—and all are backed by the sea, lush trees, or mountains. The friendly English-speaking owners provide excellent service and food. Getting to the quiet east side of the bay requires a bit of a stroll stroll—or ask the tourist office ito arrange
a van to pick you up. A private (no extra charge) outdoor bath on a sheltered overhanging corner has great views, so don't forget to reserve your 30-minute slot of pure Zen when you check in. Down in the basement there are more baths, separated by sex and open 24 hours. While soaking, you can stare at one of the most impressive aquariums you'll ever see.