By Taxi in Tokyo

In spite of the introduction of ¥340 initial-fare cabs, Tokyo taxi fares remain among the highest in the world. Most meters start running at ¥660 and after the first 2 km (1 mi) tick away at the rate of ¥80 every 274 meters (about 1/5 mi). Keep in mind that the ¥340 taxis (which are a very small percentage of those on the street) are only cheaper for trips of 2 km (1 mi) or less; after that the fare catches up with the ¥660 cabs. The ¥340 taxis have a sticker on the left-rear window. There is no bargaining or negotiating over prices; you pay the fare indicated on the meter.

There are also smaller cabs, called kogata, that charge ¥640 and then ¥80 per 290 meters (1/5 mi). If your cab is caught in traffic—hardly an uncommon event—the meter registers another ¥80 for every 1½ minutes of immobility. Between 11 PM and 5 AM, a 30% surcharge is added to the fare.

You do get very good value for the money, though. Taxis are invariably clean and comfortable. Drivers take you where you want to go by the shortest route they know and do not expect a tip. Tokyo cabbies are not, in general, a sociable species (you wouldn't be either if you had to drive for 10-12 hours a day in Tokyo traffic), but you can always count on a minimum standard of courtesy. And if you forget something in the cab—a camera, a purse—your chances of getting it back are almost 100%.

Japanese taxis have automatic door-opening systems, so do not try to open the taxi door. Stand back when the cab comes to a stop—if you are too close, the door may slam into you. When you leave the cab, do not try to close the door; the driver will do it automatically. Only the curbside rear door opens.

Hailing a taxi during the day is seldom a problem. You would have to be in a very remote part of town to wait more than five minutes for one to pass by. In Ginza, drivers are allowed to pick up passengers only in designated areas; look for short lines of cabs. Elsewhere, you need only step off the curb and raise your arm. A red light on the dashboard indicates an available taxi, and a green light indicates an occupied taxi.

At night, when everyone's been out drinking and wants a ride home, the rules change a bit. Don't be astonished if a cab with a red light doesn't stop for you: the driver may have had a radio call, or he may be heading for an area where a long, profitable fare to the suburbs is more likely. (Or the cab driver may simply not feel like coping with a passenger in a foreign language. Refusing a fare is against the law—but it's done all the time.) Between 11 PM and 2 AM on Friday and Saturday nights, you have to be very lucky to get a cab in any of the major entertainment districts; in Ginza it's almost impossible.

Unless you are going to a well-known destination such as a major hotel, it's advisable to have a Japanese person write out your destination in Japanese. Remember, there's no need to tip.