By Boat in Tokyo

The best ride in Tokyo, hands down, is the suijo basu (river bus), operated by the Tokyo Cruise Ship Company from Hinode Pier, from the mouth of the Sumida-gawa upstream to Asakusa. The glassed-in double-decker boats depart roughly every 20-40 minutes, weekdays 9:45-7:10, weekends and holidays 9:35-7:10 (with extended service to 7:50 July 9-September 23). The trip takes 40 minutes and costs ¥660. The pier is a seven-minute walk from Hamamatsu-cho station on the JR Yamanote Line.

The Sumida-gawa was once Tokyo's lifeline, a busy highway for travelers and freight alike. The ferry service dates to 1885. Some people still take it to work, but today most passengers are Japanese tourists. On its way to Asakusa, the boat passes Tsukiji's Central Wholesale Market, the largest wholesale fish and produce market in the world; the old lumberyards and warehouses upstream; and the Kokugikan, with its distinctive green roof, which houses the sumo wrestling arena, the Sumo Museum, and headquarters of the Japan Sumo Association.

Another place to catch the ferry is at the Hama Rikyu Tei-en (Detached Palace Garden: open daily 9-4:30), a 15-minute walk from Ginza. Once part of the imperial estates, the gardens are open to the public for a separate ¥300 entrance fee—which you have to pay even if you are only using the ferry landing. The landing is a short walk to the left as you enter the main gate. Boats depart every 35-45 minutes every weekday 10:25-4:10; the fare between Asakusa and Hama Rikyu is ¥620.

In addition to the ferry to Asakusa, the Tokyo Cruise Ship Company also operates four other lines from Hinode Pier. The Harbor Cruise Line stern-wheeler makes a 50-minute circuit under the Rainbow Bridge and around the inner harbor. Departures are at 10:30, 12:30, 1:30, and 3:30 (and 4:45 in August). The fare is ¥800. If you visit in August you should definitely opt for the evening cruise; the lights on the Rainbow Bridge and neighboring Odaiba are spectacular. Two lines connect Hinode to Odaiba itself, one at 20-minute intervals from 10:10 to 6:10 to Odaiba Seaside Park and the Museum of Maritime Science at Aomi Terminal (¥400-¥520), the other every 25 minutes from 9 to 5:40 to the shopping/amusement center at Palette Town and on to the Tokyo Big Sight exhibition grounds at Ariake (¥350). The Kasai Sealife Park Line cruise leaves Hinode hourly from 10 to 4 and travels through the network of artificial islands in the harbor to the beach and aquarium at Kasai Rinkai Koen in Chiba; the one-way fare is ¥800. The Canal Cruise Line connects Hinode with Shinagawa Suizokukan aquarium, south along the harborside. There are six departures daily except Tuesday between 10:15 and 4:50; the one-way fare is ¥800.

Information

Tokyo Cruise Ship Company (03/3457-7830 at Hinode; 03/3841-9178 at Asakusa. www.suijobus.co.jp).