Tokyo

Tokyo is Japan's showcase. The crazy clothing styles, obscure electronics, and new games found here are capable of setting trends for the rest of the country—and perhaps the rest of Asia, and even Europe and America.

Part of the Tokyo shopping experience is simply to observe, and on Saturday especially, in districts like the Ginza and Shinjuku, you will notice that the Japanese approach to shopping can be nothing short of feverish. You’ll probably want to resist the urge to join in the fray, especially since many of the wildly trendy clothes and accessories for sale will already be "uncool" by the time you get home. But shopping in Tokyo can also be an exercise in elegance and refinement, especially if you shop for items that are Japanese-made for Japanese people and sold in stores that don't cater to tourists. With brilliantly applied color, balance of form, and superb workmanship, crafts items can be exquisite and well worth the price you'll pay—and some can be quite expensive.

Note the care taken with items after you purchase them, especially in department stores and boutiques. Goods will be wrapped, wrapped again, bagged, and sealed. Sure, the packaging can be excessive—does anybody really need three plastic bags for one croissant?—but such a focus on presentation has deep roots in Japanese culture.

This focus on presentation also influences salespeople who are invariably helpful and polite. In the larger stores they greet you with a bow when you arrive, and many of them speak at least enough English to help you find what you're looking for. There's a saying in Japan: o-kyaku-sama wa kami-sama, "the customer is a god"—and since the competition for your business is fierce, people do take it to heart.

Horror stories abound about prices in Japan—and some of them are true. Yes, European labels can cost a fortune here, but did you really travel all the way to Tokyo to buy an outfit that would be cheaper in the designer mall at home? True, a gift-wrapped melon from a department-store gourmet counter can cost $150. But you can enjoy gawking even if you don’t want to spend like that. And if you shop around, you can find plenty of gifts and souvenirs at fair prices.

Japan has finally embraced the use of credit cards, although some smaller mom-and-pop shops may still take cash only. So when you go souvenir hunting, be prepared with a decent amount of cash; Tokyo's low crime rates make this a low-risk proposition. The dishonor associated with theft is so strong, in fact, that it's considered bad form to conspicuously count change in front of cashiers.

Japan has an across-the-board 8% value-added tax (V.A.T.) imposed on luxury goods. This tax can be avoided at some duty-free shops in the city (don't forget to bring your passport). It's also waived in the duty-free shops at the international airports, but because these places tend to have higher profit margins, your tax savings there are likely to be offset by the higher markups.

Stores in Tokyo generally open at 10 or 11 am and close at 8 or 9 pm.

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  • 1. Beams

    Shibuya-ku

    Harajuku features a cluster of no fewer than 10 Beams stores that provide Japan's younger folk with extremely hip threads. With branches ranging from street wear to high-end import brands, as well as a record store, uniform gallery, funky "from Tokyo" souvenir shop that sells anime figurines, and one that sells manga alongside designer T-shirts inspired by comic books, shopping here ensures that you or your kids will be properly stocked with the coolest wares from the city.

    3–24–7 Jingumae, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 150-0001, Japan
    03-3470–3947
  • 2. Comme des Garçons

    Minato-ku

    Sinuous low walls snake through Comme des Garçons founder Rei Kawakubo's flagship store, a minimalist labyrinth that houses the designer's signature clothes, shoes, and accessories. Staff members do their best to ignore you, but that's no reason to stay away from one of Tokyo's funkiest retail spaces.

    5–2–1 Minami-Aoyama, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 107–0062, Japan
    03-3406–3951
  • 3. Dover Street Market

    Chuo-ku

    This multistory fashion playhouse is a shrine to exclusives, one-offs, and other hard-to-find pieces from luxury brands all over the world. Curated by Comme des Garçons, the selection may leave all but the most dedicated fashion fans scratching their heads, but the unique interior sculptures and rooftop shrine with Japanese garden alone warrant a visit.

    6–9–5 Ginza, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 104-0061, Japan
    03-6228–5080
  • 4. Issey Miyake

    Minato-ku

    The otherworldly creations of internationally renowned brand Issey Miyake are on display at his flagship store in Aoyama, which carries the full Paris line. Keep walking on the same street away from Omotesando Station and also find a string of other Miyake stores just a stone's throw away, including Issey Miyake Men and Pleats Please. At the end of the street is the Reality Lab with a barrage of Miyake's most experimental lines like BaoBao, In-Ei, and incredible origami-like clothing.

    3–18–11 Minami-Aoyama, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 107-0062, Japan
    03-3423–1408
  • 5. Prada

    Minato-ku

    This fashion "epicenter," designed by Herzog & de Meuron, is one of the most buzzed-about architectural wonders in the city. Its facade is made up of a mosaic of green glass "bubble" windows: alternating convex and concave panels create distorted reflections of the surrounding area. Many world-renowned, nearby boutiques have tried to replicate the significant impact the Prada building has had on the Omotesando, but none have been unable to match this tower. Most visitors opt for a photo in front of the cavelike entrance that leads into the basement floor.

    5–2–6 Minami-Aoyama, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 107-0062, Japan
    03-6418–0400
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  • 6. 6% DokiDoki

    Shibuya-ku

    If there's one shop that is the epitome of crazy, kawaii (cute) Harajuku fashion, it's this pastel dollhouselike shop on the second floor of a nondescript building. The acid-color tutus and glittery accessories are part of a style called "kawaii anarchy" and may be the most unique shopping experience in Tokyo. The colorful shopgirls alone are an attraction, and if asked nicely, they will happily pose for photos.

    4–28–16 Jingumae, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 150-0001, Japan
    03-3479–6116
  • 7. Asakusa Nakaya Honten

    Taito-ku

    If you want to equip yourself for the neighborhood's annual Sanja Festival in May, this is the place to come for traditional costumes. Best buys here are sashiko hanten, which are thick, woven firemen's jackets; and happi coats, cotton tunics printed in bright colors with Japanese characters. Some items are available in children's sizes.

    2–2–12 Asakusa, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 111-0032, Japan
    03-3841–7877
  • 8. Bapexclusive Aoyama

    Minato-ku

    Since the late 1990s, no brand has been more coveted by Harajuku scenesters than the BATHING APE label (shortened to BAPE) founded by DJ–fashion designer NIGO. At the height of the craze, hopefuls would line up outside NIGO's well-hidden boutiques and pay ¥7,000 for a T-shirt festooned with a simian visage or Planet of the Apes quote. BAPE has since gone aboveground, with the brand expanding across the globe. You can see what the fuss is all about in this spacious two-story shop with an upstairs conveyor belt of sneakers that is always a draw.

    5--5--8 Minami-Aoyama, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 107-0062, Japan
    03-3407–2145
  • 9. Graniph Harajuku

    Shibuya-ku

    Cool and quirky T-shirts are the main focus of this store, but you can find other items in the frequently-changing lineup of designs that run from cartoon characters and odd quotes to abstract graphic images.

    6–12–17 Jingumae, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 150-0001, Japan
    03-6712–5632
  • 10. Restir

    Minato-ku

    Next to the Midtown Tokyo complex, this is possibly the most exclusive and fashion-forward boutique in the city. Its three floors are made up of a cluster of stores, from luxury stores for men and women to a surf and activewear store, a café, and another store dedicated to high-end lifestyle gadgets like headphones, toy cameras, and stylish mobile peripherals.

    9–6–17 Akasaka, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 107-0052, Japan
    03-5413–3708
  • 11. Undercover

    Minato-ku

    This stark shop houses Paris darling Jun Takahashi's cult clothing. Racks of punk clothes sit under a ceiling made of a sea of thousands of hanging lightbulbs.

    5–3–22 Minami-Aoyama, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 107-0062, Japan
    03-3407–1232
  • 12. Uniqlo

    Chuo-ku

    Customers can wrap themselves in simple, low-priced clothing staples from the company's own brand. This 12-story location is the world's largest, and sells men's, women's, and children's clothing right on the main Ginza drag.

    6–9–5 Ginza, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 104-0061, Japan
    03-6252–5181

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