French restaurants in Tokyo tend to offer little in terms of variety, but this restaurant in trendy Azabu Juban rectifies that. The prix fixe lunch allows diners to choose any four dishes on the menu. You can let the meal build through the normal progression from appetizer to dessert, or go for broke ordering four desserts in a row—whatever your preference. For dinner, the varieté meal offers eight courses, with each course's main ingredient meticulously prepared in two or three ways, such as a lobster claw served with mango confit and lobster meat paired with caviar. While the menu is playful, the dining room is serious, with oversized floral arrangements and black leather banquet seats facing the glass-encased floor-to-ceiling wine collection. The sommelier Kazuto Chiba spent years researching in Napa Valley, and the wine list includes new entries from California, Oregon, and Washington in addition to old French standards.