The draw at Oshima is the Kaga ryori cooking of Kanazawa, a small city on the Sea of Japan known as "Little Kyoto" for its rich craft traditions. Waitresses dress in kimonos of Kanazawa's famous Yuzen dyed silk; Kutani porcelain and Wajima lacquerware grace the exquisite table settings. Seafood at Oshima is superb, but don't ignore the specialty of the house: a stew of duck and potatoes called jibuni. Kaiseki full-course meals are pricey, but there's a reasonable lunchtime set menu for ¥1,800.
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