The best seats in the house at Tenmatsu, as in any tempura-ya, are at the immaculate wooden counter, where your selections are taken straight from the oil and served immediately. At this vantage point, you also get to watch the chef in action, and the good-natured hospitable chefs and staff add to the experience. Here you can rely on a set menu or order à la carte tempura delicacies like lotus root, shrimp, unagi (eel), and kisu (smelt). Call ahead to reserve counter seating or a full-course kaiseki dinner in a private tatami room. There is also a branch in Nihonbashi.