The style here is robatayaki, a dining experience that segues into pure theater. Inside a large U-shape counter, two cooks in traditional garb sit on cushions behind a grill, with a cornucopia of food spread out in front of them: fresh vegetables, seafood, skewers of beef and chicken. You point to what you want, and your server shouts out the order. The cook it back, plucks your selection up out of the pit, prepares it, and hands it across on an 8-foot wooden paddle.
Inakaya is open from 5 pm and fills up fast after 7. If you can't get a seat here, there is now another branch on the other side of Roppongi Crossing.