Ganchan

Ganchan Review

The Japanese expect their yakitori joints—restaurants that specialize in bits of charcoal-broiled chicken and vegetables—to be just like Ganchan: smoky, noisy, and cluttered. The counter here seats barely 15, and you have to squeeze to get to the chairs in back. Festival masks, paper kites and lanterns, and greeting cards from celebrity patrons adorn the walls. The cooks yell at each other, fan the grill, and serve up enormous schooners of beer. Try the tsukune (balls of minced chicken) and the fresh asparagus wrapped in bacon. The place stays open until 1:30 am (midnight on Sunday).