Converted from a sento (public bathhouse), Maisen still has the old high ceiling (built for ventilation) and the original signs instructing bathers where to change, but now bouquets of seasonal flowers transform the large, airy space into a pleasant dining room. Maisen's specialty is the tonkatsu set: tender, juicy, deep-fried pork cutlets served with a spicy sauce, shredded cabbage, miso soup, and rice. A popular alternative is the Suruga-zen set,
a main course of fried fish served with sashimi, soup, and rice. There is usually a long line, but it moves quickly. Solo diners can jump the line to sit at the counter. And those who want to keep their taste buds sharp should try for the nonsmoking rooms upstairs.