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$$ | Chiyoda-ku |
Also known as "Andy's," this izakaya is located directly under the tracks of the Yamanote Line, making the wooden interior shudder each time a train passes overhead. It's a favorite with local and foreign journalists and is actually run by a Brit, Andy, who travels to the seafood market every morning to buy seafood. Don't miss the fresh sashimi and buttered scallops. It fills up very quickly, so call at least the day in advance to make a reservation.
2–4–4 Yurakucho, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 100-0006, Japan
Known For
- Favorite among Tokyo expats
- Expansive menu
- Cozy, lively atmosphere
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No lunch, Reservations essential
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$$$ | Shibuya-ku |
Founded by American Bryan Baird in 2000, Baird Brewing has become one of the leaders in Japan's now booming craft-beer movement, with a range of year-round brews, such as the hop-heavy Suruga Bay IPA, and creative seasonal beers that use local ingredients such as yuzu citrus and even wasabi. The Harajuku Taproom combines Baird's excellent lineup of microbrews with Japanese izakaya (pub) fare like yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), gyoza (dumplings), and curry rice. The Taproom's rotation of 15 beers on tap, plus two hand-pumped ales, as well as its quality food and friendly atmosphere make it a must for beer lovers and dispel any notion that all Japanese beers taste the same. There are other branches in Naka Meguro, Takadanobaba, Kichijoji, and Yokohama.
1–20–13 Jingumae, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, Japan
Known For
- Japanese craft beer
- Hand-pumped ales on tap
- Blend of Western and Japanese pub fare
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: No lunch weekdays
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$$$$ | Minato-ku |
The style here is robatayaki, a dining experience that segues into pure theater. Inside a large U-shape counter, two cooks in traditional garb sit on cushions behind a grill, with a cornucopia of food spread out in front of them: fresh vegetables, seafood, and skewers of beef and chicken. You point to what you want, and your server shouts out the order. The cook in back plucks your selection up out of the pit, prepares it, and hands it across on an 8-foot wooden paddle. Inakaya is open from 5 pm and fills up fast after 7. If you can't get a seat here, there is another branch, Inakaya West, on the other side of Roppongi Crossing.
3--14--17 Roppongi, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 106-0032, Japan
Known For
- Entertaining service
- Fresh ingredients grilled just right
- Fun, lively atmosphere
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: No lunch, Reservations not accepted
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$$$ | Minato-ku |
Smoky, noisy, and cluttered, Ganchan is exactly what the Japanese expect of their yakitori joints—restaurants that specialize in bits of charcoal-broiled chicken and vegetables. The counter here seats barely 15, and you have to squeeze to get to the chairs in back. Festival masks, paper kites, lanterns, and greeting cards from celebrity patrons adorn the walls. The cooks yell at each other, fan the grill, and serve up enormous schooners of beer. Try the tsukune (balls of minced chicken) and the fresh asparagus wrapped in bacon. Otherwise opt for a mixed eight-skewer set that also comes with several small side dishes. The place stays open until 1:30 am (midnight on Sunday).
6–8–23 Roppongi, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 106-0032, Japan
Known For
- Eclectic decor
- Cozy, down-to-earth atmosphere
- Fills up on weekends
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: No lunch
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$$$$ | Chuo-ku |
Anyone looking to experience Japanese haute cuisine in a more relaxed atmosphere should look to this kappo-style restaurant, where diners order and eat at the counter. Third-generation chef—and 2002 Iron Chef champion—Kimio Nonaga displays his artistry in every element of Nihonbashi Yukari's menu. Dinner here is a multicourse affair, with each dish showcasing the freshness and quality of the seasonal ingredients. To witness him at work, and get the full kappo dining experience, be sure to request a counter seat when making reservations. As a bonus, Nihonbashi Yukari also offers a lunch setting for a fraction of the price of dinner, which is unusual for this kind of restaurant.
3–2–14 Nihonbashi, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, Japan
Known For
- Excellent kappo-style lunch sets
- Affordable for high-end kappo dining
- Chef Nonaga's creative take on Japanese cuisine
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: Closed Sun., Reservations essential
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Recommended Fodor’s Video
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$$$ | Chiyoda-ku |
Old, funky, and more than a little cramped, Robata is a bit daunting at first, but fourth-generation chef-owner Takao Inoue holds forth here with an inspired version of Japanese home cooking. He's also a connoisseur of pottery and serves his food on pieces acquired at famous kilns all over the country. There's no menu; just tell Inoue-san how much you want to spend, and leave the rest to him. A meal at Robata—like the pottery—is simple to the eye but subtle and fulfilling. Typical dishes include steamed fish with vegetables, stews of beef or pork, and seafood salads.
1--3--8 Yurakucho, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 100-0006, Japan
Known For
- Country-style izakaya
- No menu
- Dishes served on unique pottery collection
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: Closed some Sun. each month. No lunch
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$$$$ | Minato-ku |
The exclusive specialty here is tofu, prepared in more ways than you can imagine—boiled, steamed, stir-fried with minced crabmeat, served in a custard, or wrapped in thin layers around a delicate whitefish paste. Tofu is touted as the perfect high-protein, low-calorie health food; at Ume no Hana it's raised to the elegance of haute cuisine. Remove your shoes when you step up to the lovely central room. Latticed wood screens separate the tables, and private dining rooms with tatami seating are available. Prix-fixe meals, from ¥5,000 to ¥8,000 at dinner, include a complimentary aperitif, while lunchtime is very budget-friendly considering the quality (courses from ¥2,100). Ume no Hana shops in Ueno and Ginza are also worth visiting.
2–27–18 Minami-Aoyama, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 107-0062, Japan
Known For
- Varied set meals
- Delicious thin sheets of yuba tofu
- Good value lunch courses
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$ | Shinjuku-ku |
Just south of the Shinjuku station, this chain ramen house serves up ramen with hints of citrus in the broth, turning this often heavy dish into something more refreshing. It's located on a basement food level of Shinjuku's Lumine I department store, so you can have the nearby Thai food instead should you peek in and change your mind.
1–1–2 Nishishinjuku, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, Japan
Known For
- Lively atmosphere
- Very unusual citrusy broth
- A light version of the sometimes heavy ramen
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Ameya is a traditional sweet and snack store on Monzen-machi best known for a riff on the local soba theme. You don’t get soba noodles here, but rather "soba bread." Basically, it’s a steamed bun made with buckwheat (soba) flour, sugar, and rice flour, in which you can have one of four fillings: sweet red bean paste (anko), mustard greens (takana), daikon radish, and the very non-traditional keema curry.
5-15-10 Jindaiji-motomachi, Chofu, Tokyo-to, 182-0017, Japan
Known For
- Soba bread (steamed buns)
- Traditional setting
- Take-out only
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: No dinner
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$$ | Suginami-ku |
Koenji has many culinary bases covered, and with this izakaya it delivers Okinawan food and drink as authentically as you’ll find in Japan’s southern islands: thank the Okinawan owner for that. The menu features regional classics such as goya champuru (a stir fry of bitter gourd, spam, and tofu) and soki soba (noodles with pork sparerib meat), which you can chase down with Orion Beer and a firebrand of an island rice spirit called awamori. Like many Koenji venues, it runs late, opening daily from 5 pm to 5 am.
3-2-13 Koenji Kita, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 166-0002, Japan
Known For
- Okinawan dishes
- Awamori spirits
- Opens till 5 am
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: No lunch
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$$ | Taito-ku |
Daikokuya, in the center of Asakusa's historic district, is a point of pilgrimage for both locals and tourists. The specialty here is shrimp tempura, and the menu choices are simple—tendon is tempura shrimp served over rice, and the tempura meal includes rice, pickled vegetables, and miso soup. Famished diners can add additional pieces of tempura or side dishes such as sashimi for an additional fee, or opt for a multi-dish course. When the line of waiting customers outside is too long, head to the shop's annex (bekkan) just around the corner.
1–38–10 Asakusa, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 111-0032, Japan
Known For
- Being an Asakusa landmark
- Tokyo-style tempura a cut above the rest
- Long lines
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$ | Koto-ku |
Kamasho serves the signature dish of the old Fukagawa area, Fukagawa-meshi: short-neck clams and green onion cooked in a miso broth and poured over a bowl of rice. You can order just a bowl of Fukagawa-meshi or opt for a set with a side serving of pickles and miso soup. If you are really hungry, the largest set also comes with some sushi. There’s beer and sake on the menu if you want something to wash it all down with.
2-1-13 Shirakawa, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 135-0021, Japan
Known For
- Fukagawa-meshi (clams on rice)
- Lively atmosphere
- Rustic interiors
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon.
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Located in Shibuya's Tokyu Department Store, Tenichi is an accessible and relaxed tempura restaurant. The best seats are at the counter, where you can see the chefs work and each piece of tempura will be served piping hot, directly from the oil. The restaurant's simple, brightly lit interior keeps the focus on the food itself. Choose from a selection of ten-don (tempura served with sauce over a bowl of rice) or tempura sets. The more expensive tempura meals are available at the counter only.
2--24--1 Dogenzaka, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 150-0043, Japan
Known For
- Tempura cooked right before your eyes
- Friendly service
- Long lines on weekends
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$ | Suginami-ku |
Having started as a street stall in Ogikubo in the late 1940s, Harukiya is now a ramen restaurant that often has patrons lining up down the street. The noodles here come in a soy- and dried sardine-based stock and are served with a topping of chashu (roast pork) with the noodles being handmade every morning.
1-4-6 Kamiogi, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 167-0043, Japan
Known For
- Long lines
- Excellent ramen
- Quick turnover of diners
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: Closed Tues.
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$$$$ | Shiba-Shiodome |
Perched on the 46th floor of the Carretta Shiodome Building overlooking Tokyo Bay, this seafood-focused izakaya is a nice escape from the chaotic frenzy below. Specialties include grilled fish and house-made tofu. As the name suggests, Suntory's highly rated Hibiki whiskey is also on the menu, along with wines and sake that pair well with the food.
1–8–2 Higashi-Shimbashi, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 105-0021, Japan
Known For
- Open, big glass windows
- Seasonal ingredients
- Outstanding scenery on a clear day
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Soba noodles, which are made with buckwheat, are a signature of the restaurants near Jindai-ji. That's apparently because buckwheat was traditionally easier to grow here than rice. This place along the temple’s Monzen-machi approach serves handmade soba in a variety of ways, including in warm broths and cold with a dipping sauce.
5-11-2 Jindaiji-motomachi, Chofu, Tokyo-to, 182-0017, Japan
Known For
- Soba noodles
- Rustic vibe
- Close to the main sights
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon. No dinner
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$ | Chiyoda-ku |
Soba, thin buckwheat noodles often served chilled in summer and hot in winter, are available everywhere, even convenience stores. The family-run Matsuya serves authentic soba in a rustic atmosphere. A simple soba meal can be quite inexpensive, or, for a bit more, get noodles topped with tempura or other goodies.
1–13 Kanda Sudacho, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 101-0041, Japan
Known For
- Authentic hand-cut noodles
- Tempura soba
- Lunchtime crowds
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: Closed Sun.
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$ | Chiyoda-ku |
The ever-popular Kanda Yabu Soba, located in a recently built but traditional building that replaced the original 130-year-old restaurant after a fire in 2013, is one of the oldest and best places to sit down and savor freshly made soba—be that on tatami or at one of the tables. Soba, thin noodles made from buckwheat flour and quickly dipped into a hot broth or cold dipping sauce, are the lighter cousin of udon.
2–10 Kanda Awajicho, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 101-0041, Japan
Known For
- Excellent rotating seasonal set
- Soba sushi rolls
- Historic atmosphere
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: Closed Wed.
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$$$$ | Chuo-ku |
The appeal of Ajioka's seasonal specialties like fugu (puffer fish) and suppon (Japanese turtle) lies as much in the unique texture and experience as in the subtle, nondescript taste. Licensed chefs prepare these in every way imaginable—raw, fried, stewed—using the fresh catch flown in straight from Shimonoseki, a prime fugu-fishing region. Try the house specialty of suppon (Japanese turtle) and fugu nabe, fugu sashimi, or fugu no arayaki (grilled head and cheeks). Menus change by season and reservations must be made two days in advance to order fugu.
7–7–12 Ginza, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 104-0061, Japan
Known For
- Courses that give a small tast of unique Japanese foods
- Excellent nabe (hot pots) courses
- Intimate atmosphere and friendly staff (though little English is spoken)
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: Closed Sun., Reservations essential
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Located in a 120-year-old former merchant house on Ichibangai shopping street, this eatery is good for a quick snack on the go or a sit down lunch. It's known for its skewers of soy-basted dango (rice dumplings) and decadent parfaits, but also serves bowls of more filling somen noodles and udon noodles.
6-1 Sawaicho, Saitama-ken, 350-0063, Japan
Known For
- Dango
- Somen noodles
- Historic location