As Tokyo's rich cultural history entwines itself with an influx of foreign influences, Tokyoites get the best of both worlds. An evening out can be as civilized as a night of Kabuki or as rowdy as a Roppongi nightclub. In between there are dance clubs, a swingin' jazz scene, theater, cinema, live venues, and more than enough bars to keep the social lubricant flowing past millions of tonsils nightly.
Most bars and clubs in the main entertainment districts have printed price lists, often in English. Drinks generally cost ¥600-¥1,200 ($5-$10), although some small exclusive bars and clubs will set you back a lot more. Be wary of establishments without visible price lists. Hostess clubs and small backstreet bars known as "snacks" or "pubs" can be particularly treacherous territory for the unprepared. That drink you've just ordered could set you back a reasonable ¥1,000 ($8); you might, on the other hand, have wandered unknowingly into a place that charges you ¥15,000 ($124) up front for a whole bottle -- and slaps a ¥20,000($165) cover charge on top. If the bar has hostesses, it's often unclear what the companionship of one will cost you, or whether she is there just for conversation. Ignore the persuasive shills on the streets of Roppongi and Kabuki-cho, who will try to hook you into their establishment. There is, of course, a certain amount of safe ground: hotel lounges, jazz clubs, and the rapidly expanding Irish pub scene are pretty much the way they are anywhere else. But elsewhere it's best to follow the old adage: if you have to ask how much it costs, you probably can't afford it.
There are five major districts in Tokyo that have extensive nightlife, and each has a unique atmosphere, clientele, and price level:
Akasaka
Nightlife in Akasaka concentrates mainly on two streets -- Ta-machi-dori and Hitotsugi-dori -- and the small alleys connecting them. The area has several cabarets and nightclubs, plus wine bars, coffee shops, late-night restaurants, pubs, and "snacks" -- counter bars that will serve (and charge you for) small portions of food with your drinks, whether you order them or not. It's also renowned for its many Korean barbecue restaurants, which tend to be on the pricey side. Akasaka is sophisticated and upscale -- which is not surprising for an old geisha district -- but not as expensive as Ginza.
Ginza
Unless you have a bottomless expense account, Ginza is best considered as a window-shopper's destination. Affordable bars and restaurants do exist, but most close around 11 PM. The late-night entertainment spots tend to be exclusive hostess clubs where kimono-clad women pander to politicians and high-rolling businessmen. Roppongi
Roppongi developed to serve the needs of the post-World War II American occupiers, who picked the area as their base. Some would say little has changed since then, as the area remains a hot spot for American soldiers looking to unwind. Roppongi was traditionally ghostly quiet by day, boisterous and crude by night. But things took an unexpected turn in late 2003 when the city's leading property magnate, Minoru Mori, opened the upscale Roppongi Hills complex a stone's throw from the sleaze. The fancy stores, restaurants, bars, and luxury apartments of the development now draw a more urbane crowd to the area.
Shibuya
Shibuya is the heart of Tokyo's vibrant youth culture, with shopping and nightlife geared to the teen and twentysomething crowd. The pedestrian-only Center Gai street is the place to see the latest, quirkiest Tokyo teen fashion. Shibuya is also a delight for record shoppers, with what is said to be the highest concentration of vinyl of any square mile on the planet.
Shinjuku
Long a favorite drinking spot for artists and businesspeople alike, Shinjuku offers everything from glamorous high-rise bars to sleazy dens. The Golden-Gai area is the haunt of writers, artists, and filmmakers. Nearby Kabuki-cho is the city's most notorious red-light district, where English-speaking touts offer myriad sordid experiences. The Ni-chome area (near Shinjuku Gyo-en National Garden) is the center of Tokyo's diverse and vibrant gay and lesbian scene. The compact area is deserted during the day, but each night more than 250 bars, clubs, and restaurants bring Ni-chome to life. Thanks in part to its diminutive dimensions, Ni-chome is said to have more gay bars per block than any other city in the world.
