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Thanks to its history and unique culture, the Kansai region offers an unparalleled variety of Japanese cuisine. In addition to the local specialties of Osaka, Kobe, and Nara, Kansai has the same inexpensive chain restaurants as Tokyo and a good variety of international food. Outside tourist areas, restaurant staff may not speak English but often exhibit Kansai’s signature friendliness, going out of their way to help.
If there is one food Osaka is known for, it is okonomiyaki, a savory pancake that can be filled with vegetables, meat, or seafood. Mizuno, opened in 1945, is one of the city's best and oldest places to try this hearty specialty. Mizuno's okonomiyaki are light and fluffy, using a variety of ingredients delivered from Osaka's Kuromon Market. Sitting at the long teppan counter grill you can watch as the chef whips up a hearty taste of Osaka before your eyes. Long lines form around lunch and dinnertime, but move rather quickly.
Pungent nara-zuke will lure you into this well-known shop and adjoining restaurant. Inside, white-capped prep cooks busily prepare packages of pickles that you can try with cha-gayu (green-tea porridge) or a meal of crispy tempura. The set menus are on display, making ordering simple. This is a good place to escape the crowds on Higashi-muki Dori, the main shopping street. Nara Kintetsu Station and Nara Koen are within a five-minute walk.
It may look like a hole-in-the-wall from the outside, but this tiny cash-only restaurant serves up some of Osaka's finest akashi-yaki, a much fluffier and more delicate take on the city's famous grilled octopus. The staff are friendly and helpful. In addition to akashi-yaki, the shop also serves up excellent gyoza (fried meat-filled dumplings) and ika-yaki (grilled squid). It also carries a good selection of local sake.
In the basement of Kita-Shinichi's Aspa (Takagawa Umeda) Building, the hip, low-ceilinged Bat-ten Yokato serves a wide selection of very good yakitori (skewered meat and vegetables) in a fun, cozy atmosphere. Sitting at the long bar, you can watch the cooks work and call out requests. In addition to the quality of the food, the fact that the staff is obviously having a good time makes this an excellent place to try one of the most popular foods in Japan.
This lively café offers above average French cuisine that you can enjoy on an outdoor terrace—a true rarity in Japan. The menu covers all the bases, ranging from couscous to bouillabaisse. Midway up the hill on Kitano-zaka, it's great for people-watching and is a good stop while cruising the Kitano district. Lunch and dinner sets are reasonably priced.
Housed in the former Kobe Union Church, this café exemplifies Kobe's relaxed beauty. High ceilings, arched windows, and white walls give the dining room a bright, airy feel. It's the perfect place to take a rest from exploring the Kitano neighborhood. The kitchen serves tasty salads and sandwiches, and the bread is baked fresh next door.
This eatery's kamitsumichi bento box, with a selection of sashimi, fried shrimp, tofu, vegetables, and homemade plum liqueur, is a bargain. Harishin is traditional and quite rustic. You sit in either a large tatami room overlooking a garden or around a large irori (hearth).
At Hiraso you can try kakinoha-zushi, sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves. What's more, you can take it away in a nicely wrapped wooden box for a satisfying lunch in Nara Park. Another featured delicacy is kakisuga, dried persimmon dusted with kudzu (flour made from the East Asian kudzu vine) or arrowroot powder and cooked tempura style. Most set menus include green-tea porridge, which is usually made with mushrooms or seasonal vegetables. Hiraso has tables and chairs, but the tatami alcoves are more intimate.
A hip hangout on the fringe of Amerika-mura, Planet 3rd is perfect for a quick snack or a full meal. The food is tasty—consisting mostly of sandwiches, curries, and sweets—and the atmosphere is cool and laid back. In the morning the café serves breakfast from 7 am. The computers at the front are free use for customers.
The mellow atmosphere at Raja is matched by the delicious Indian food. The restaurant is now in its second generation; the friendly owner-chef is the son of the reputed first Indian chef in Kobe. Among the home-style curries and samosas, vegetarians can find something delicious. Raja attributes the excellence of the tandoori chicken to using the highest-grade charcoal available in Japan. It's on the west end of Chinatown, near Moto-machi. Lunch is cheaper, but dinner sets are reasonably priced.
Shunkoku Shunsai (literally "seasonal grains, seasonal vegetables") is a tasty change from the heavier Osaka cuisine. The healthy French-Japanese fusion dishes are fresh and light but filling, and the ¥1,155 lunch sets are a good value. Located in Grand Front Osaka (connected to Osaka Station), it is also a good place for a meal on your way in or out of the city.
For a real taste of Osaka, line up for kushi katsu (skewered meats and vegetables) outside Shin Sekai's Yaekatsu. This no-frills, counter-only restaurant has the reputation of being one of Osaka's oldest and best places to get kushi katsu. At dinner the line stretches the length of the shop, so arrive early or be prepared to wait. Yaekatsu is in Shin Sekai's Jan Jan Yokocho shopping street. Coming from Dobutsuen-mae Station, the shop is halfway down the shopping street on your left. The large red-and-white sign is only in Japanese, but pretty easy to spot.
Specializing in Japanese sweets and elegant bento-box meals, Yanagi-jaya's secluded tatami rooms and peacful garden transports diners to a bygone age. It can be found among the trees on a street corner, just a short walk east along the path from Kofukuji's Five-Storied Pagoda.
Part of a business established since 1615, this store serves a multitude of dishes made using kuzu, a starchy edible plant traditionally used in cooking throughout the Nara region. The affordable set menus include savory and sweet dishes, and the chilled kuzu-mochi desserts and ice-cream are a refreshing treat on a hot day. A good place to stop for lunch or a quick bite either before or after visiting Todai-ji Temple, just a stone's throw away.
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