Kanazawa

Twenty-first century Kanazawa presents an extraordinary union of unblemished Old Japan and a modern, trendsetting city. More than 300 years of history have been preserved in the earthen walls and flowing canals of Nagamachi, the former samurai quarter west of downtown; the cluster of Buddhist temples in Tera-machi on the southern bank of the Saigawa River; and the wooden facades of the former geisha district, located north of the Asano-gawa river. Modern art, fashion, music, and international dining thrive in the downtown core of Korinbo, and in the shopping districts of Tatemachi and Katamachi. The Japan Sea provides great seafood and a somewhat dreary climate. Fortunately, cold, gray, and wet weather is offset by friendly people.

In the feudal times of the Edo period, the prime rice-growing areas around Kanazawa (known then as the province of Kaga) made the ruling Maeda clan the second wealthiest in the country. Harvests came in at more than hyaku-man-goku (1 million koku, the Edo-period unit of measurement based on how much rice would feed one person for a year). This wealth funded various cultural pursuits such as silk dyeing, ceramics, and the production of gold-leaf and lacquerware products.

This prosperity did not pass unnoticed. The fear of attack by the Edo daimyo inspired the Maeda lords to construct one of the country's most massive castles amid a mazelike network of narrow, winding lanes that make the approach difficult and an invasion nearly impossible. These defensive tactics paid off, and Kanazawa enjoyed 300 years of peace and prosperity. Nevertheless, seven fires over the centuries reduced the once-mighty Kanazawa-jo to castle walls and a single, impressive gate. The former castle grounds are now the site of Kanazawa University.