Side Trips from Tokyo Restaurants

The local specialty in Nikko is a soybean-based concoction known as yuba (tofu skin); dozens of restaurants in Nikko serve it in a variety of dishes you might not have believed possible for so prosaic an ingredient. Other local favorites are soba (buckwheat) and udon (wheat-flour) noodles—both inexpensive, filling, and tasty options for lunch.

Three things about Kamakura make it a good place to dine. It's on the ocean (properly speaking, on Sagami Bay), which means that fresh seafood is everywhere; it's a major tourist stop; and it has long been a prestigious place to live among Japan's worldly and well-to-do (many successful writers, artists, and intellectuals call Kamakura home). On a day trip from Tokyo, you can feel confident picking a place for lunch almost at random.

Yokohama, as befits a city of more than 3 million people, lacks little in the way of food: from quick-fix lunch counters to elegant dining rooms, you'll find almost every imaginable cuisine. Your best bet is Chinatown—Japan's largest Chinese community—with more than 100 restaurants representing every regional style. If you fancy Italian, Indian, or even Scandinavian, this international port is still guaranteed to provide an eminently satisfying meal.

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  • 1. Beer Mountain

    $$$

    This beer hall is Mt. Takao's only full-fledged restaurant and serves a prix-fixe two-hour, all-you-can eat, all-you-can drink buffet meal that is a hodgepodge of sausages, pasta, Japanese dishes, and desserts, and there are a number of Japanese beers on tap. Beer Mountain is connected to Takaosan Station, the top station of the Takao Tozan Cable Line.

    2205 Takao-machi, Tokyo, Tokyo-to, 193-0844, Japan
    042-665–9943

    Known For

    • Lively outdoor atmosphere
    • Views over the mountains and Western Tokyo
    • Filling post-hike meal

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Oct.–June
  • 2. Bergfeld

    $

    This German bakery serves cakes and cookies that are surprisingly authentic—the baker trained in Germany. There are a few small tables outside, and cozy tables inside where you can enjoy coffee and cakes before resuming your tour. Many Japanese who visit from other parts of the country bring back the bakery's butter cookies as souvenirs.

    3–9–24 Yukinoshita, Kamakura, Kanagawa-ken, 248-0005, Japan
    0467-24–2706

    Known For

    • Authentic German pastries and desserts
    • A good break between seeing sights
    • Tasty sandwiches

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues., 1st and 3rd Mon.
  • 3. Cafe Omnibus

    $ | Naka-ku

    Omnibus serves up an impressive selection of gourmet sandwiches and deli plates in the airy lobby of Yokohama's Historic former Dai-Ichi Bank Building. The building also houses the Yokohama Creative Center, making it a hub for local designers and artists.

    6–50–1 Honcho, Yokohama, Kanagawa-ken, 231-8315, Japan
    045-306–9114

    Known For

    • Tasty sandwiches and deli plates
    • Casual, hip atmosphere
  • 4. Enokitei Honten

    $$ | Naka-ku

    Located in one of the area's few remaining historic Western-style houses an Enokitei is a relaxing stop for sweets or a light meal. The interior has the feel of a British-style tea room, with dark wood and antiques, while the garden terrace is surrounded by greenery and flowers much of the year. In addition to cakes and scones, Enokitei also has a selection of homemade sandwiches for a light lunch.

    89--6 Yamatecho, Yokohama, Kanagawa-ken, 231-0862, Japan
    045-623--2288

    Known For

    • Elegant yet casual atmosphere
    • People-watching in the shade
    • Afternoon tea
  • 5. Gyoshintei

    $$$

    This is the only restaurant in Nikko devoted to shojin ryori, the Buddhist-temple vegetarian fare that evolved centuries ago into haute cuisine. Gyoshintei is decorated in the style of a ryotei (traditional restaurant), with all-tatami seating. It differs from a ryotei in that it has one large, open space where many guests are served at once, rather than a number of rooms for private dining. Dinner is served until 7.

    2339–1 Sannai, Nikko, Tochigi-ken, 321-1431, Japan
    0288-53–3751

    Known For

    • Buddhist-temple cuisine
    • Serene setting
    • Traditional atmosphere

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Thurs.
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  • 6. Hachinoki Kita-Kamakuraten

    $$$

    Traditional shojin ryori (the vegetarian cuisine of Zen monasteries) is served in this old Japanese house on the Kamakura Kaido (Route 21) near the entrance to Jochi Temple. The seating is mainly in tatami rooms with beautiful antique wood furnishings. If you prefer table seating, visit the annex building. Allow plenty of time; this is not a meal to be hurried through.

    350 Yamanouchi, Kamakura, Kanagawa-ken, 247-0062, Japan
    0467-23–3723

    Known For

    • Buddhist-temple cuisine for all budgets
    • Peaceful, traditional atmosphere
    • Elegant dining experience

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Wed.
  • 7. Houtenkaku Shinkan

    $$$ | Naka-ku

    This no-frills eatery serves up excellent sheng jian bao (Shanghai-style fried dumplings) and other casual Shanghai cuisine all day long. The open kitchen is behind glass so customers can admire the speed with which the chefs cook up this Shanghai staple. Get a selection of sheng jian bao at the first floor takeout window for an inexpensive snack or dine in at the second-floor restaurant for a more relaxed meal.

    192--15 Yamashita, Yokohama, Kanagawa-ken, 231-0023, Japan
    050-5570--4921

    Known For

    • Authentic Shanghai dumplings
    • Quick and satisfying street food
  • 8. Kaikin Hanten

    $$$ | Naka-ku

    In contrast to many of the meat-heavy choices in Chinatown, this Cantonese restaurant specializes in fresh, flavorful seafood dishes. Menu highlights include the shrimp-shiso spring rolls, steamed Sakhalin surf clams with garlic, and a rotating selection of fresh fish caught that day. Not to be outdone by the seafood, the sweet-and-sour ribs are a treat. 

    126--22 Yamashita-cho, Yokohama, Kanagawa-ken, Japan
    050-5485--4599

    Known For

    • Some of Chinatown's freshest seafood
    • Excellent quality at reasonable prices
    • Wide selection of Cantonese dishes
  • 9. Kaiseiro

    $$$$

    This establishment, in an old Japanese house, serves the best Chinese food in the city. The dining-room windows look out on a small, restful garden. Make sure you plan for a stop here on your way to or from the Great Buddha at Kotoku-in.

    3–1–14 Hase, Kamakura, Kanagawa-ken, 248-0016, Japan
    0467-22–0280

    Known For

    • Elegant atmosphere
    • Steeped in history
    • Excellent Peking duck and other multicourse meals

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential
  • 10. Kaisen Misaki-ko

    $$

    This kaiten-zushi (sushi served on a conveyor belt that lets you pick the dishes you want) restaurant serves eye-poppingly large fish portions that hang over the edge of their plates. All the standard sushi creations, including tuna, shrimp, and egg, are prepared here. As in any kaiten-zushi joint, simply stack up your empty dishes to the side. When you are ready to leave, the dishes will be counted and you will be charged accordingly.

    1–7–1 Komachi, Kamakura, Kanagawa-ken, 248-0006, Japan
    0467-22–6228

    Known For

    • Friendly, helpful staff and sushi chefs
    • Inexpensive, quality sushi
    • Fast service
  • 11. Kamakura Udon Miyoshi

    $$

    Serving up some of Kamakura's best handmade udon noodles and tempura, this unpretentious restaurant is a good bet for quick and satisfying lunch. Miyoshi also has a selection of local sakes to pair with your meal.

    1–5–38 Yukinoshita, Kamakura, Kanagawa-ken, 248-0005, Japan
    0467-61–4634

    Known For

    • Fresh noodles made before your eyes
    • Reliability amid the tourist traps in the area
    • Tempura that won't weigh you down
  • 12. Kaseiro

    $$$$ | Naka-ku

    Chinese food can be hit-or-miss in Japan, but not at Kaseiro. This elegant restaurant, with red carpets and gold-toned walls, is the best of its kind in the city, serving authentic Beijing cuisine, including, of course, Peking duck and shark-fin soup. The consistently delicious dishes, combined with the fact that both the owner and chef are from Beijing, make this restaurant a well-known favorite among locals and travelers alike.

    186 Yamashita-cho, Yokohama, Kanagawa-ken, 231-0023, Japan
    045-681–2918

    Known For

    • Yokohama's flagship Chinese restaurant
    • Grand atmosphere
    • Excellent multicourse meals
  • 13. Kyorai-an

    $$

    A traditional Japanese structure houses this restaurant known for its excellent Western-style beef stew along with homemade cheesecake, pastas and local wines. Half the seats are on tatami mats and half are at tables, but all look out on a peaceful patch of greenery.

    157 Yamanouchi, Kamakura, Kanagawa-ken, 247-0062, Japan
    0467-24–9835

    Known For

    • Classic Japanese–Western cuisine
    • Local wines and ingredients
    • Lovely views

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Thurs. and Fri.
  • 14. Meiji-no-Yakata

    $$$

    Not far from the east entrance to Rinno-ji temple, Meiji-no-Yakata is an elegant 19th-century Western-style stone house, originally built as a summer retreat for an American diplomat. The food, too, is Western-style: specialties of the house include fresh rainbow trout from Lake Chuzenji, roast lamb with pepper sauce, and melt-in-your-mouth filet mignon made from local Tochigi beef. High ceilings, hardwood floors, and an air of informality make this a very pleasant place to dine.

    2339–1 Sannai, Nikko, Tochigi-ken, 321-1431, Japan
    0288-53–3751

    Known For

    • Classic high-end Japanese–Western cuisine
    • Excellent desserts
    • Lovely outdoor seating
  • 15. Nantai

    $$

    The low tables, antiques, and pillows scattered on tatami flooring make visitors feel like they're dining in a traditional Japanese living room. Try the Nikko specialty, yuba (tofu skin), which comes with the nabe (hot pot) for dinner. It's the quintessential winter family meal. The seafood here is fresh and both the trout and salmon are recommended. Each meal comes with rice, pickles, and selected side dishes like soy-stewed vegetables, tempura, udon, and a dessert.

    2478–8 Chugushi, Nikko, Tochigi-ken, 321-1661, Japan
    080-7091--3200

    Known For

    • Home-style hot-pot cuisine
    • Cozy atmosphere
    • Local specialties from Chuzen-ji

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Thurs.
  • 16. Roma Statione

    $$$ | Naka-ku

    Opened more than 40 years ago, this popular venue between Chinatown and Yamashita Park is Yokohama's source for Italian food. The owner, whose father studied cooking in Italy before returning home, is also the head chef and has continued using the original recipes. The house specialty is seafood: the spaghetti vongole (with clam sauce) is particularly good, as is the spaghetti pescatora and the seafood pizza. An added bonus is the impressive selection of Italian wines.

    26 Yamashita-cho, Yokohama, Kanagawa-ken, 231-0023, Japan
    045-681–1818

    Known For

    • Authentic Italian cuisine
    • Excellent seafood
    • Extensive Italian wine selection
  • 17. Sawamoto

    $$$

    Charcoal-broiled unagi (eel) is an acquired taste, and there's no better place in Nikko to acquire it than at this small and unpretentious place with only five plain-wood tables. Service can be lukewarm, but Sawamoto is reliable for a light lunch or very early dinner of unagi on a bed of rice, served in an elegant lacquered box. Eel is considered a stamina builder: just right for the weary visitor on a hot summer day.

    1037–1 Kamihatsuishi-machi, Nikko, Tochigi-ken, 321-1401, Japan
    0288-54–0163

    Known For

    • Simple, beautifully prepared unagi
    • 90 years of history
    • Simple, comfortable atmosphere

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 18. Scandia

    $$$$ | Naka-ku

    This Scandinavian restaurant near the Silk Center and the business district is known for its smorgasbord. It's popular for business lunches as well as for dinner. Scandia stays open until midnight, later than many other restaurants in the area. Expect dishes like steak tartare, marinated herring, and fried eel, and plenty of rye bread. Although dinner is pricey, lunch is a relative bargain.

    1–1 Kaigan-dori, Yokohama, Kanagawa-ken, 231-8401, Japan
    045-201–2262

    Known For

    • Classic Scandinavian cuisine
    • Good lunch sets
    • Open late
  • 19. Shunotei Hira

    $$$$ | Naka-ku

    The area of Motomachi is known as the wealthy, posh part of Yokohama; restaurants here tend to be exclusive and expensive, though the service and quality justify the price. This restaurant is an old-style Japanese house complete with a Japanese garden and five private tatami rooms. For a real feast, try the 27-course banquet that includes traditional Japanese delicacies such as sashimi, shiitake mushrooms, and chicken in white sauce; deep-fried burdock; and broiled sea bream.

    1–55 Motomachi, Yokohama, Kanagawa-ken, 231-0861, Japan
    045-662–2215

    Known For

    • Overwhelming 30-course dinners
    • Traditional atmosphere
    • Long dinners

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon., Reservations essential
  • 20. Yokohama Cheese Cafe

    $$$ | Nishi-ku

    This is a cozy and inviting casual Italian restaurant, whose interior looks like an Italian country home. There are candles on the tables and an open kitchen where diners can watch the cooks making pizza. On the menu: 18 kinds of Neopolitan-style wood fire–baked pizzas, 20 kinds of pastas, fondue, and other dishes that include—you guessed it—cheese. The set-course menus are reasonable, filling, and recommended.

    2–1–10 Kitasaiwai, Yokohama, Kanagawa-ken, 220-0004, Japan
    045-290–5656

    Known For

    • A cheese lover's paradise
    • Rich, creamy fondue
    • Affordable multicourse meals

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch

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