At Ai-no-Yakata, you can try the ancient craft of dyeing cloth in cauldrons of pungent indigo. Someone at the desk will show you a price chart for items—cotton handkerchiefs are only ¥500, silk scarves close to ¥2,000. Towels come out splendidly, but you have to ask for the separate price chart (the word is ta-o-ru). It's fun, and you'll be delighted with what you make. Snoop around the 400-year-old craft center when you're finished. One of the proprietors performs
daily on the shaku-hachi, a thick-bodied wooden flute, and he'll play anytime you ask. From Tokushima Station, hop a 20-minute bus to Higashi Nakatomi. Walk down the hill behind you and follow the indigo signs.
Aizumi-cho, Tokumei Aza Maesunishi, Tokushima, 777-1212, Japan