Walking through stalls of nearly identical terra-cotta shisa statues in the Tsuboya district, you may think that Okinawa's pottery tradition is a newfangled tourist gimmick: don't be fooled. Stop into Kiyomasa Toki for a look at 320 years of unbroken tradition. Take home a keepsake and you'll be in good company: visiting dignitaries often receive a plate as a gift from the city.
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