Across the Nagara River from Gifu Castle, Ryoken Sugiyama is a tasteful blend of traditional and modern. The rooms are large, with tatami floors and elegant shoji doors—ask for one overlooking the river. The staff is polite in a mannered way, and the food (included in the room charge) features the ubiquitous ayu alongside traditional ryokan fare. There's a nice on-site hot spring baths. The place is run by the same family whose cormorant fishing masters ply the river
every night, and some of the staff speaks English. It's a 15-minute taxi ride from Gifu Station or a 10-minute walk north of the castle.