This former Taisho-era warehouse with antique glass windows and an inner courtyard garden is a setting that befits the excellent Beijing-style dishes that take inspiration from Zen Buddhist cuisine. Evening courses from ¥5,200 start with five types of appetizers, including gyoza or pan-fried dumplings (very popular in Japan) followed by dishes like Szechuan-style (spicy) stir-fried tofu, a chicken stew, or lightly flavored sea bream. The ¥11,000 course is literally fit for an emperor – its wellspring being imperial-court cuisine; Peking Duck is followed by delicacies like spiny lobster stew and crab in winter. For lunch try the ¥4,000 Beijing Honzen course, including dim sum and a meat and fish dish. The bar (open until 11 PM) in the old kura, or storehouse, at back stocks a good selection of Chinese aperitifs and European wines, but there is a table charge. Look for the wall mural with many pocchiri, the sash clasp used by maiko to secure their obis.
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