$$$$, Japanese, Kyoto
Fodor's Review:
Below Shijo-dori along the Takase-gawa canal the neon signage is abruptly replaced by discreet wooden doors with lanterns. Farther on, south of Matsubara Bridge and wedged between houses, is Giro Giro Hitoshina, its large canal-side window glowing. A square counter that surrounds the chefs fills the ground floor, but the upstairs has tables. The monthly changing 10-dish course is a showcase of sosaku ryori, the creative reinvention of traditional cuisine currently popular. À la nouvelle cuisine, tiny morsels are daubed onto an array of plates; a few slenderaji (horse mackerel) glide in a clear soup, followed by monkfish liver grilled on a leaf with miso; a mille-feuille tartlet encloses a scrumptious morsel of crab after beef sashimi. Drinks flow as fast as the waiters endlessly traversing between the two floors.
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