Counter kaiseki lunches are popular, and each chef has a signature style of preparation and presentation. The broad counter inside this sturdy yet immaculate house seats 10, and the ¥3,150 lunch course is rustic yet refined. Liberal use is made of unpolished dark rice, roughly blended vegetables, mini hot pots and choice sashimi like whorls of conger eel. Dessert could be a ball of mochi, pounded, steamed rice swirled in chocolate and roasted soybean paste. Dinners start at ¥6,300. Akiyama is some blocks west along the canal road, with its stately merchant houses, leading to Kamigamo Jinja; the roofed gate of the restaurant opens onto a garden that merges with the foliage of the hillside. This quiet neighborhood can be explored by bicycle.
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