North of Shijo-dori in the heart of Kyoto's still-thriving geisha district, this restaurant is in a teahouse a few steps down a cobbled path from the romantic Shira-kawa, a small tributary of the Kamo-gawa. The o-makase meal is an elegant sampler of Kyoto's finest kaiseki cuisine, with local delicacies presented on handmade ceramics. The shabu-shabu (thinly sliced beef, dipped briefly into hot stock) and suppon (turtle dishes) are excellent. Don't miss the hoba miso – bean paste with kinoko mushrooms and green onions, which are wrapped in a giant oak leaf and grilled at your table – on the à la carte menu. A cheaper option is the excellent box lunch for ¥2,500.
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