Five generations of chefs have preserved the delicious sukiyaki recipe served here since 1873. At the street-level butcher's counter, housewives line up to pay top dollar for the high-quality beef, but your feast awaits upstairs in the large tatami-matted dining room, one of the many cheerful garden rooms, or the endearing teahouse (our favorite). A kimono-clad attendant will help get you started cooking everything at your table. Sukiyaki varies between restaurants: Mishima-tei
favors thin slices of beef and a platter of vegetables, which you eat by dipping anything hot off the pan into cooling, flavorful raw egg before popping it into your mouth. The ¥6,000 Mini Course belies its name in terms of quantity. At the west entrance of the Tera-machi arcade, it's easy to find.