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Mankamero. Since 1722, Mankamero's specialty has been yusoku ryori, cuisine intended for members of the Imperial Court. Every step of the meal is incredibly elaborate, down to the ceremonially dressed chef who prepares your dishes using specially made utensils. A dramatic, if repellently named, course is the "dismembered fish," in which each part of a single fish is prepared and served on a series of pedestal trays. Prices reflect the aristocratic experience—from ¥10,000 to ¥30,000 for the full repertoire per person. A wonderful take-kago (bamboo box) lunch set is within reach of commoners at ¥6,325, revealing a series of steamed surprises. Mankamero is on the west side of Inokuma-dori north of Demizu-dori. Look for the blue-tile roof. 387 Ebisu-cho, Kamigyō-ku, Kyōto, 602-8118. 075/441–5020. www.mankamerou.com. Reservations essential.
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