A short walk south of Nijo-jo is the less visited Nijo Jinya, a former merchant house built in the 17th century. The house later became an inn for traveling daimyo, or feudal lords. When Kyoto was the seat of the imperial crown, Nijo Jinya served as a safe venue for the daimyo to conduct secret meetings. The house is crammed with built-in safeguards against attack, including hidden staircases, secret passageways, and hallways too narrow to allow the wielding of a sword. Since the hour-long tour through the warren of rooms is in Japanese, we recommended hiring a translator. The staff at the Utano Hostel (075/462-2288) can make arrangements for a translator if you call at least three days in advance. Ask your concierge to call Nijo Jinya to make a reservation for you to tour the house.
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