Three palaces make up this villa complex with pleasant grounds that offer a view of northern Kyoto. The Upper and Lower villas were built in the 17th century by the Tokugawa family to entertain the emperor; the Upper Villa provides nice views of northern Kyoto. The Middle Villa was added later as a palace home for Princess Bunke, daughter of Emperor Go-mizunoo. The villa was transformed into a temple when Princess Bunke decided that a nun's life was her calling. Comparing the villas to the ostentatious might of Ieyasu Tokugawa's Nijo-jo on the other end of town illustrates how vastly the pure aesthetics of the imperial style differed from the shogun's tastes.
Special permission is required to visit the villa, a few days in advance, from the Imperial Household Agency (Kunaicho, Kyoto Gyoen-nai, Kamigyo-ku. 075/211-1215. sankan.kunaicho.go.jp). From Hiei-zan take the Eizan Railway from Yase Yuen Station to Shugaku-in Station. The villa is a 15-minute walk from there. From downtown Kyoto the trip takes an hour on Bus 5 from Kyoto Station. Or ride 20 minutes north on a Keifuku Eizan Line train from the Demachi-Yanagi terminus, which is northeast of the intersection of Imadegawa-dori and the Kamo-gawa.
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