Nanzen-ji Review

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Nanzen-ji

  • Address: Nanzenji-Fukuchi-cho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto

Fodor's Review:

Like Ginkaku-ji, this former retirement villa was turned into a temple on the death of its owner, Emperor Kameyama (1249-1305). To counterbalance the might of the old Nara sects, military rulers historically favored this Zen sect and its associated philosophical and aesthetic tradition steeped in Chinese culture. By the 14th century this had become the most powerful temple in Japan, which spurred the Tendai monks to destroy it. The 15th-century Onin Civil War demolished the buildings again, but some were resurrected during the 16th century. Nanzen-ji has become one of Kyoto's most important temples, in part because it's the headquarters of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism.

Monks in training are still taught in the So-do building. You enter the temple through the enormous 1628 San-mon (Triple Gate), the classic "gateless" gate of Zen Buddhism that symbolizes entrance into the most sacred part of the temple precincts. From the top floor of the gate you can view Kyoto spread out below. Whether or not you ascend the steep steps, give a moment to the statue of Goemon Ishikawa. In 1594 this Robin Hood-style outlaw tried but failed to kill the daimyo Hideyoshi Toyotomi. He hid in this gate until his capture, after which he was boiled in a cauldron of oil. His story is still enacted in many Kabuki plays.

On through the gate is Hojo (Abbots' Quarters), a National Treasure. Inside, screens with impressive 16th-century paintings divide the chambers. These wall panels of the Twenty-Four Paragons of Filial Piety and Hermits were created by Eitoku Kano (1543-90) of the Kano school—in effect the Kano family, because the school consists of eight generations of one bloodline (Eitoku was from the fifth generation). Kobori Enshu created what's commonly known as the Leaping Tiger Garden, an excellent example of the karesansui style, attached to the Hojo. The large rocks are grouped with clipped azaleas, maples, pines, and moss, all positioned against a plain white well behind the raked gravel expanse. The greenery effectively connects the garden with the lush forested hillside beyond.

Within Nanzen-ji's 27 pine-tree-covered acres sit several other temples, known more for their gardens than their architecture. One worth visiting is Nanzen-in, once the temporary abode of Emperor Kameyama. Nanzen-in has a mausoleum and a garden that dates from the 14th century; a small creek passes through it. From Nomura Art Museum, walk south along the main path to Nanzen-ji; the temple complex will be on your left.

  • Cost: Abbot's Quarters ¥400, entrance to San-mon or Nanzen-in ¥300
  • Open: Mar.-Nov., daily 8:40-5; Dec.-Feb., daily 8:40-4:30
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