In the heart of one of Kyoto's busy nightlife district, Nontaro has been the place for sushi for decades. Beefy chefs on impossibly tall wooden geta sandals serve the freshest cuts of richly flavorful sushi, mixing staples like ginger-tinged mackerel with innovative surprises like aloe heart dabbed with horseradish. Nontaro serves its sushi in a traditional style, which has fallen by the wayside almost everywhere else. Each delicate roll is dropped directly onto the red-lacquer
countertop for you to grab and gobble up, and running water in a narrow channel lets you wash your hands after each go. In etiquette-over-everything Kyoto, finger food feels totally scandalous. A take-out bento box, perfect for sightseeing or temple-hopping, is ¥3,680. A lunch course is between ¥2,000 and ¥5,000.