In the onsen (hot springs) village of Yunohana in the mountains of Tamba northwest of Kyoto, this hotel allows you to soak in your own rotemburo (outdoor bath) overlooking a private garden. If you're feeling adventurous you can get into the full swing of an onsen visit by joining other guests in one of the communal baths (separated by gender), including a rotemburo. Though the building is nondescript, the layers of sliding paper screens of the lobby's facade and the steps bordered on one side by a gently sloping waterfall suggest Old Kyoto. Kaiseki dinners are prepared with seasonal favorites, including Tamba boar in winter. An overnight stay at the hotel complements a trip to Arashiyama. For ¥600 you can take the scenic Sagano Torokko train, which leaves Saga Torokko Station in Arashiyama six minutes before the hour for the 20-minute ride to Kameoka, where Yunohana is located. Call ahead to ask the hotel shuttle bus to meet you at the station. To return to Arashiyama, take the Hosogawa-kudari boat the next day. Alternatively, you can take the JR line between Kameoka and Kyoto stations.