The Daitoku-ji complex of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism consists of 24 temples (several are open to the public) surrounded by trees in a spacious, walled enclosure. The original temple was founded in 1319, but fires during the Onin Civil War destroyed it in 1468. Most buildings you see today were built under the patronage of Hideyoshi Toyotomi in the late 16th century. However, it's thought that the priest Ikkyu oversaw much of Daitoku-ji's development. Ikkyu, known for his rather startling juxtapositions of the sacred and the profane -- he was a priest and a poet -- is reported to have said that "brothels are more suitable settings for meditation than temples." Despite leaving the temple to live a Zen lifestyle outside the monastery, he eventually became the abbot and helped shape the formalized tea ceremony.

The Chokushi-mon (Gate of Imperial Messengers) originally served as the south gate of Kyoto's Imperial Palace when it was constructed in 1590. Then Empress Meisho in the mid-17th century bequeathed it to Daitoku-ji. Note the curved-gable style of the gate, typical of the Momoyama period. The San-mon (Triple Gate) is noteworthy for the addition of its third story, designed by the most famous of tea masters, Sen-no-Rikyu (1521-91). In contrast to the extravagant tea ceremonies of Toyotomi, Sen-no-Rikyu developed the concept of wabi -- seeking beauty in simplicity, and even poverty and loneliness -- in connection with the tea ceremony. Sen-no-Rikyu, who is buried in the temple grounds, went on to commit seppuku; legend has it he was ordered to do so by Toyotomi, who was angry at a statue Sen-no-Rikyu supposedly erected of himself on the San-mon. Three subtemples in the complex are noteworthy: Daisen-in, Ryogen-in, and Koto-in.

Ryogen-in has five small gardens of gravel, stone, and moss. The A-Un garden has a stone with ripples emanating and is said to represent the union of duality, from the "a" sound said at birth to the "un" said at death, encompassing all in between. The fee for Ryogen-in is ¥350, and the temple stays open 9-4:30.

The subtemple Koto-in is famous for its long, maple-tree-lined approach and the single stone lantern central to the main garden. The fee is ¥400, and the temple stays open from 9 until 4:30 or 5 (enter 30 minutes before closing).

There are several ways to get to the temple from downtown Kyoto. Take the subway north from Kyoto Station to Kita-oji Station, from which any bus going west along Kita-oji-dori will take you to the Daitoku-ji-mae stop. You can also take Bus 12 north up Horikawa-dori and disembark soon after the bus makes a left on Kita-oji-dori. From western Kyoto Bus 204 (which runs up Nishi-oji-dori) and Bus 206 (which runs up Sembon-dori) will also take you to the temple. The temple grounds are free, but there are admission costs for additional temples, and one or two are by appointment only.