Kiyomizu-dera Review

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Kiyomizu-dera

  • Address: Kiyomizu 1-chome, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto

Fodor's Review:

For centuries visitors and pilgrims have climbed the cobbled streets to Kiyomizu-dera, which stands prominently on a steep hillside with fine views of the city. Supported in part by 139 pillars, the temple juts out over the valley. Finding the courage to set out on a daring, new adventure is likened to "taking a leap from the veranda of Kiyomizu." The cypress-shingle roof harmonizes with the cryptomeria-covered hills, and below is the slender Sound of Feathers waterfall, believed to be the original source of kiyomizu, or pure water, which is drunk to prevent illness, using long-handled cups. The valley stroll garden is meant to suggest the southern paradise of the bodhisattva Kannon, the 11-faced goddess of mercy.

Built in 788, the original temple, which today belongs to the Hosso sect, predates Kyoto by six years. Although Kiyomizu-dera honors the popular Kannon, to whom women pray for an easy childbirth, it has become over time a sort of everyman's temple. You'll see evidence of this throughout the grounds, from the stacked rows of little Jizo Bosatsu statues (representing the god of travel and children) to the many koma-inu (mythical guard dogs), donated by grateful patrons, marking the pathways.

The current structure dates from 1633; the militant monks of Hiei-zan destroyed the original temple during one of their periodic bloody purges. On the south side is a brilliant vermilion, three-tier pagoda decorated with Chinese influences in the forms of colorful flowers, esoteric Buddhist symbols, and ornate metalwork above the grand wooden gate. On the north side of the main hall is a small shrine called Jishu-jinja, dedicated to Okuni Nushi-no-mikoto, a land-ruling deity also considered to be a powerful matchmaker. Many young people visit the shrine to seek help in finding their life partners. They try to walk between two stones placed 18 meters (59 feet) apart, with their eyes closed. It's said that love will materialize for anyone who can walk in a straight line between the two.

Shops selling souvenirs, religious articles, and ceramics line Kiyomizu-zaka, the street leading to the temple. There are also tea shops where you can sample yatsuhashi—doughy, triangular sweets filled with cinnamon-flavor bean paste—a Kyoto specialty. From Kyoto Station take Bus 206 to the Kiyomizu-michi stop. From the Kawai Kanjiro Memorial House cross the major avenue, Gojo-dori, and walk up Higashi-oji-dori. The street to the right, Gojo-zaka, leads into Kiyomizu-zaka, which you'll take to the temple. November 1-10, the garden of the superior of the temple is open to the public.

  • Cost: ¥300
  • Open: Daily 6-6
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