In the mountains northwest of Kyoto, this ryokan allows you to soak in your own rotemburo (outdoor hot tub) overlooking a private garden. If you're feeling adventurous, you can join other guests in one of the communal baths (separated by gender, of course). Though the building is nondescript, the layers of sliding paper screens of the lobby's facade and the steps bordered on one side by a gently sloping waterfall suggest Old Kyoto. Kaiseki dinners are prepared with
seasonal favorites, including crab, sukiyaki, and wild boar in winter. A great way to get here is the scenic Sagano Torokko train, which leaves from Saga Torokko Station in Arashiyama. Alternatively, you can take JR Sagano Line to Kameoka Station.
Yunohana-onsen, 1-4 Hiedanocho, Ashinoyama, Kameoka City, 621-0034, Japan