Rokko-san and Arima Onsen

Rokko-san and Arima Onsen Review

Three cable cars scale Mt. Rokko, providing spectacular views of the city. For convenience, take the Shin-Kobe Ropeway up to the Nunobiki Herb Park. It departs just east of the Shin-Kobe station. Time the trip so you'll descend soon after dusk, when the city lights shine against the black sea.

The Rokko cable also has staggering views of lush forests. On the mountain are various recreational areas, including the oldest golf course in Japan, designed in 1903 by the English merchant Arthur H. Gloom, and the summer houses of Kobe's wealthier residents.

To get to Rokko-san, take the Hankyu Kobe Line from Hankyu San-no-miya Station to Hankyu Rokko Station (¥180). From there take a taxi or a bus to Rokko Cable-shita Station. A funicular railway travels up the mountain to Rokko-sanjo Station (¥570). You can return to Kobe by cable car or by rail. Take the Kobe Dentetsu to Tanigami Station and change for the subway back to San-no-miya (¥900).

The Japanese were already enjoying the thermal waters at Arima Onsen before the 7th century. Arima is on the north slope of Rokko-san and consists of a maze of tiny streets and traditional houses. Some 30 ryokan use the thermal waters' reputed curative powers to attract guests. Although the water gushes up freely from springs, some ryokan charge as much as ¥10,000 for use of their baths. Go instead to the public bath, Arima Onsen Kaikan, in the center of the village near the bus terminal. Here ¥520 gets you a soak in the steaming waters. Arima Onsen Kaikan is open daily 8 am-10 pm (closed the first and third Tuesday of the month). Take the subway north from JR Shin-Kobe Station, transferring at Tanigami and ending at Arima (¥900).