Below the red sign depicting a roly-poly mustachioed doll, this 45-year-old establishment serves the city's freshest barbecued lamb jingisukan (a local delicacy, going for ¥700 a plate). It's served steaming atop heaps of vegetables. At the end of the meal you're given hot tea to mix with what's left of your dipping sauce—mixed together, they're oddly delicious! Be sure to wear your least-favorite clothes and don the paper bib that's provided. It's a chain, but
this is the honten (main branch), so feast away until you become roly-poly yourself.