Otaru

Otaru nets its wealth in tourists these days, rather than herring, but the canal where barges used to land the shimmering silver catch is still the center of action for the thousands of domestic and Asian visitors reeled in by images of a romantic weekend retreat. Gaijin from countries with 19th-century stone buildings may be less impressed by the tourist strip along the canal, but rent a bike or walk away from the main drag and you can explore quaint neighborhoods and interesting buildings. The Otaru Snow Gleaming Festival (February 9-18), when thousands of snow lanterns light up the canal area and old buildings, is beginning to rival the bigger Sapporo Snow Festival with its quieter, local atmosphere.