21 Best Sights in Indonesia

"Bali has never been as great as it used to be," celebrated Bangkok-based journalist John Hail wrote three decades ago. He must not have seen Lembongan Island, 20 km (12 miles) offshore from Sanur. First visited by surfers, Lembongan features miles of sandy beaches, a village vibe, and stunning views back to Bali. Get there by boat from Sanur, then explore by foot or on a bike, perhaps crossing the bridge to neighboring Nusa Ceningan. Accommodations range from simple huts to luxury villas. Count on someone lamenting, "Lembongan isn't what it used to be."

Enjoy a cultural doubleheader above the teeming surf at Pura Luhur Uluwatu. Located about 15 miles outside of Kuta, this ancient temple site anchoring Bali's southwestern tip may not impress as much as Besakih near Kitamani or Tanah Lot north of Seminyak, but the dramatic seaside cliffs, reminiscent of California's Big Sur, lend a mystical feel, especially at sunset. Steer clear of resident monkeys: remove glasses, earrings, and anything else they may grab. (Local kids will retrieve stolen items—for a price.) Don't carry food, and resist hawkers selling monkey snacks. The kecak dance, presented every day at 6 pm, features dozens of bare-chested men in elaborately costumed dance excerpts from the pan-Asian Ramayana legend. The cost is an extra Rp100,000.

October 12, 2002 was just another party-hearty Saturday night in Kuta until a pair of bombs detonated in rapid succession, the first inside a popular bar, the second in a van outside an even more popular nightclub across Jalan Legian. The blasts and ensuing inferno left at least 202 dead, 88 of them Australian tourists, nearly 250 more injured, and millions of lives charged. The memorial, located at the site of the first blast, was dedicated two years later with an elaborately carved Balinese motif inspired by shadow puppets towering above the marble plaque listing known fatalities by nationality. Flags of their 23 homelands are raised daily around the monument. Always open, the memorial is tastefully illuminated at night.

From white tigers to rhinos to northern cassowaries, Bali Safari and Marine Park's 60 species will fill in blanks on most bucket lists. The park's Bali Aga extravaganza (daily except Mondays) has Disney-level production values, well worth the US$10 surcharge. Entertaining animal and elephant shows emphasize conservation themes. Most animal headliners are viewed only on the 30 minute safari tour, but there are elephants, camels, and birds around the park for photos and feeding (for a fee). There's also an aquarium featuring piranhas.

In recent years Bali Zoo has significantly improved its game, removing old-school cages in favor of more animal-friendly open enclosures like a river otter habitat where you're treated to underwater views. It has maintained an intimate feel, so there's still a petting zoo and lots of opportunities for up-close views of fearsome bearcats and cute lion cubs. Located between Ubud and Sanur, the zoo offers elephant rides, a treetop trail, and other kid-pleasing amenities. Packages including transportation from major tourist areas.

Bali's lake country highlands present breathtaking vistas at elevations above 1,000 meters (3,280 feet), two to three hours north of southern resort areas. Bedugul overlooks Danau (Lake) Bratan. Lakeside temple Pura Ulun Danau Bratan (Rp10,000) is rightly among Bali's most photographed spots. Vast Bali Botanical Garden (Kebun Raya Eka Karya Bali; Rp7,000), mobbed on Sundays, grows palms to pines to pink roses, thanks to the elevation. Bedugul's market and countless hawkers sell famed local strawberries. The winding 16-km (10-mile) road to Munduk skirts Danau Buyan and Danau Tamblingan, with views of forested mountainsides that reach the sea. Munduk features hiking trails, waterfalls, Dutch colonial buildings, and coffee plantations. Weather ranges from sweltering sun to misty downpour to mountain chill, often changing dramatically within a couple of hours.

This tucked-away surf spot lets you enjoy the beach the way it was intended, without the pretense found to the south. Echo Beach is a stretch of black sand accessed by steps, located below a series of rocky outcrops. The water is safe for experienced surfers only; otherwise stick to wading. When the weather is right, the area is shrouded in mist. A series of warung (food vendors) have sprung up on wooden decks above the beach, serving beverages and simple meals. The 10 km (6-mile) ride from Seminyak passes through many of the area's remaining rice fields. Hang out all day or just come for sunset. Amenities: Food and drink; toilets. Best for: Walking; sunset; surfing.

Local designers, international boutiques and restaurants from around the world line a half-mile stretch of Jalan Laksmana, Jalan Kayu Aya and Jalan Oberoi. (Note: many use the street names interchangeably.) On the fashion side, compare Bali's own Dinda Rella's evening wear to Australian creations featured at Bamboo Blonde and the mix at Simple Konsep. About 500 feet (150 meters) beyond the Seminyak Square shopping center, a fashion bazaar features clothes and accessories with bargaining as part of the experience. On the eats side, find a fast-changing cast representing a wide range of prices and cuisines, though rather light on Indonesian.

With five waterfalls at four locations between Bedugul and Singaraja, Gitgit can be a confusing destination. Gitgit Waterfall is farthest from southern resort areas and down the mountainside toward the north coast. The waterfall is nearly 160 feet (48 meters) high and takes about an hour to climb down then up the 150 steps to it, and no guide is necessary. With a guide, it's possible to continue to smaller Colek Pamor, Twin, and/or Multi Falls. Visiting all four requires about three hours walking a hilly 2 miles (3 kilometers) through plantations and rice fields. Use official village guides from the Gitgit parking area for the best trekking prices, which includes a contribution to the community projects.

There are more theories about the origins of Goa Gajah and its name than there ever were native elephants on Bali. What's indisputable is this Hindu holy place dates back at least 1,000 years. The T-shaped cave interior has elaborate stone carvings and a statue of the Hindu elephant god Ganesha, which is a tribute to Goa Gajah name but not the reason for it. The courtyard outside the cave has sculptured female figures filling a pair of bathing pools. Consider visiting Goa Gajah, about 4 miles (6 kilometers) southeast of central Ubud, by bicycle and walking or pedaling through scenic rice fields to nearby Yeh Pulu (Rp20,000) for its panoramic 14th century rock carvings depicting village life.

Learn how java got its name at the Munduk Moding Plantation, where you can take a walking tour of the 12-acre coffee plantation. The informative 45-minute trek also features cloves, sugar palms, and tropical fruits. Come early for the views—on a clear day, you can see across the strait to Java's volcanic Mount Merapi. The on-site restaurant serves Balinese and international dishes, as well as hearty breakfasts perfect for the cool mountain air, accompanied by homegrown brew. The boutique resort hotel features horseback riding for longer treks in the extraordinarily countryside and a spectacular infinity pool.

Explore the works of Belgian painter Adrien Jean Le Mayeur de Merpes, who arrived in Sanur in 1932 at age 52. He shared the remainder of his life on Bali with Ni Nyoman Pollok, the 15 year old dancer that became his primary model and wife The couple's home, on a wide patch of beach, displays 88 of Le Mayeur's works, including early impressionist views of Europe, island watercolors on grass matting, and later rich oils that still influence Balinese artists. Original antique furniture, period photos, and elaborate stone and wood carvings on shutters and walls contextualize the paintings and the Le Mayeurs. Don't miss the canvas of Balinese maidens lounging around a fish pond, then see that same elegant window frame still overlooking the pond.

Ubud is Bali's arts center, and Neka Museum traces the island's painting history. Arranged like a family compound in separate pavilions in a garden, the museum illustrates the evolution of painting in Bali, including the influence of prominent foreign and Indonesian artists who have lived here. One wing showcases Java's Abdul Aziz, who evocatively depicted everyday Balinese. Upstairs, there's a veritable greatest hits gallery dedicated to Bali's resident international masters, including Antonio Blanco and Rudolf Bonnet.

Take a primer course in the fine arts of Bali at Pasifika Museum. The 350 piece collection, mainly paintings, includes legendary Balinese and foreign artists. Big names Adrien Jean Le Mayeur, Theo Maier, Miguel Covarrubias and Donald Friend—the latter two perhaps better known for their writing about Bali—are well represented. Rather oddly, artworks are arranged by the artists' country of birth, rather than chronologically or by subject or region depicted. Works from Pacific islands and Indochina are also displayed. The museum injects needed local culture into Nusa Dua, a government-developed five-star hotel complex about 9 miles (15 kilometers) from Kuta at the southern tip of Bali that lacks island character.

Bali's so-called "mother temple" exemplifies island Hinduism and, regrettably, tourism-driven greed. Some 3,000 feet (900 meters) up Mount Agung's southwestern slope, Pura Besakih includes 23 temples, interiors usually closed to visitors, about three hours from southern resort areas. Pura Pentaran Agung dominates, with six stages climbing the mountainside. Equally striking are lines of women worshipers in matching sarong and kebaya (form-fitting long blouse), swaying up temple paths, fruit offerings balanced on their heads, and views to the sea if clouds clear. Besakih hawkers and guides – some knowledgeable, most negligible – throng visitors; steer clear and accept no offers without setting a price first. Most visitors daytrip to Besakih; some skip the temple and just cruise nearby mountain roads.

Who would imagine there is winemaking in Bali but the the local Sababay Winery uses Bali-grown grapes, part of its commitment to grassroots partnerships. Visitors to its winery, about 20 minutes up the coast northeast of Sanur, can see up to a half-million liters (130,000 gallons) of juice being processed into 10,000 bottles a day of its Black Velvet, White Velvet and Pink Blossom varieties, formulated by Sababay's French winemaker. These so-called New Latitude wines are meant to be poured young, so there's not an oak cask in sight. Sababay aims to revitalize grape growing in North Bali through its Farmer Partnership Agreement, paying higher crop prices to planters that follow its agricultural methods. Visits to vineyards near Lovina can also be arranged.

A haven for shutterbugs and children, Ubud's Monkey Forest is home to dozens of Balinese macaques. These long-tailed grayish primates mug it up and dive spectacularly into their pool when not taking refuge in the tall trees. But there's more to the forest than monkeyshines. Guides posted along the paths gladly expound on the site's history and temples, including Pura Perana, dating to the 14th century. Monkeys here are better behaved than their counterparts in Uluwatu, but still can get nasty. Remove anything they can grab (like hats, glasses and earrings) and all food from your person. Obey the many "Do Not Feed" signs rather than the sales pitches of banana and peanut hawkers.

The beach is the thing in Sanur, which has perfect views of Mount Agung when clouds part. An offshore reef breaks the waves into gentle ripples lapping the white sand. But the reef also means there's often barely enough water to cover your ankles at low tide—ask your hotel staff about the tides. The surfing here is strictly for experts, as the coral can produce nasty gashes and worse. Perfect for strolling or biking, a brick beach walkway runs for 5 km (3 miles). It's lined with shops, cafes, and water-sports operators. Amenities: food and drink, toilets, showers. Best for: walking, sunrise. surfing.

Puppetry is serious stuff across Southeast Asia, an important part of traditional and religious ceremonies. Setia Darma House of Masks and Puppets celebrates the tradition. More than 1,000 items, predominantly from Bali and Java, are shown in four joglo, Javanese wooden houses. Intricate wayang kulit, leather characters for shadow puppetry, headline the collection that also features wayang golek (wooden puppets), masks for topeng dances, and pieces from Africa and Europe. There are first-rate captions in English. Located in a small village surrounded by rice fields, the museum's grounds include lotus ponds, brooding banyan trees, and performance areas. If you take a taxi from Ubud, the museum staff can arrange transportation back.

This seaside temple perched atop a tidal islet rates high among Bali's signature sights. Built during the 15th century, Tanah Lot remains a major pilgrimage destination. A spring here supplies holy water to temples across Bali, and priests offer blessings to all. Buses converge here for the magical sunset tableau; arrive early to avoid the traffic and experience the temple, not the crowd. At most times, the 15-km (10-mile) drive north from Seminyak requires less than half an hour. A gauntlet of vendors, many of them pushy, line the paths from parking areas to the temple grounds. Adjacent Surya Mandala Cultural Park stages a kecak dance—an a cappella performance accompanied by a chanting male chorus—at 6:30 nightly. Admission to the performance is Rp50,000.

The wreck of the Liberty makes Tulamben everybody's favorite dive destination. The World War II U.S. cargo ship sank just off the east coast of Bali, a 2½-hour drive from southern resort areas. For snorkelers and divers alike, exploring the Liberty is like swimming in a crowded tropical fish tank. Fortunate visitors see pygmy seahorses among the dozens of luminescent species and corals. Dive services are available in Tulamben, if you travel here on your own. Or day-trip with dive operators, such as Atlantis International Bali (www.atlantis-bali-diving.com), and enjoy terraced rice-field vistas along the way.