Uttarakhand Places

Rishikesh and Haridwar

Yoga, ayurvedic healing, spiritual retreats... the resurgence of Western interest in the mind-body-spirit connection has put the ancient holy city of Rishikesh on the map in recent years, revitalizing its appeal for the first time since the Beatles visited in the 1960s. The town's location on the Ganges is sacred, but its streets are anything but tranquil: you'll find them crowded with sadhus (holy men), Hindu pilgrims, con men, peddlers, monkeys, and hippies. Whether you come to check into an ashram or just to check out the scene, to "find" yourself or watch herds of others doing so, you'll encounter Rishikesh's slightly bizarre sometimes irresistible energy.

Only one side of Rishikesh is accessible by road. You have to cross one of the two suspension bridges or by boat to see the other half. The Ram Jhula bridge area is the most vigorous part of town, packed with shops, tiny eateries, and yoga ashrams. Fragrant sandalwood bead necklaces make nice souvenirs. Shivananda Ashram (135/243-0040 or 135/243-1190 www.divinelifesociety.com) is the hub of ashram life in Rishikesh and organizes everything from yoga and meditation classes to overnight stays in spartan rooms. The visitor center is right next to Ram Jhula. A boat ride on the Ganges from Ram Jhula just after dawn will set you back Rs. 75-Rs. 400 depending on your bargaining skills and the length of time you want to spend on the river. About a kilometer from Ram Jhula, in a more peaceful part of town, is Rishikesh's older, more famous suspension bridge, the Lakshman Jhula. Stop into one of the nearby cafés to watch the world go by, or cross the bridge to find a relatively quiet spot along the bathing ghats (steps going down to the river, where people perform their ablutions or do laundry). This neighborhood is packed with craft emporiums and shops selling jewelry, shoes, spiritual music, and pipes.

About a half-hour's drive (24 km) from Rishikesh is Haridwar, which many feel is the holier town—the real thing. Visit Haridwar around sunset. Head to the heart of town to see the activity on one of the most sacred bathing ghats, Har-ki-Pairi (you may not be allowed to walk on the ghat itself), then visit some of the temples in this neighborhood. At sunset the Ganga Maha Aarti begins, a simple ceremony that beautifully distills the essence of Hinduism. Pilgrims from all over India gather on the riverbank holding little leaf baskets of flowers and diyas (oil candle lamps). At nightfall, all the temples along the Ganges begin their evening puja (worship) and bhajans (hymns) at once, and the baskets holding lighted diyas are floated down the river to accompaniment of rousing music.