Nainital

The drive from Corbett to Nainital takes less than two hours, but is memorable for its solitude and scenery. East of Ramnagar the road leads you on a tour of unspoiled agrarian India: mud dwellings with grass roofs stand next to fields of sugarcane, wheat, and lentils. Interspersed with the fields are small stands of teak and sal, with the occasional banana plantation thrown in. In the distance glimpses of the Himalayan foothills that await you. Just before you turn up into the hills at Kaladungi, you'll pass Jim Corbett's old winter home, a small colonial bungalow with a museum. The road uphill begins in a sal forest, which occasionally gives way to terraced fields. As the trees thin out, the road gets steep and starts to wind. Toward the top you might be held up by troops of langurs sunning themselves on the road or children on their way home from school in the city. Suddenly the road turns downhill, and the congestion of Nainital begins.

Nainital is one of India's most popular hill stations. "Discovered" by the British in the 1840s, this one was later made the official summer capital of Uttarakhand (then known as the United Provinces). The town clutches steep slopes around a lake of the same name, and is one of India's few hill stations with this distinction to add to its beauty. It's easy to see why the British fell in love with this idyllic spot, yet development is beginning to take its toll in the form of congestion, pollution, and noise. Indian tourists, especially honeymooners, come to Nainital year-round to enjoy the cool air and mountain views. The school holidays, April 15-June 15, bring the largest crowds and should be avoided if possible.

The region is best known for its pretty woodlands and boating opportunities, but as a former colonial capital, it packs quite a bit of history. Those interested in colonial architecture are in for a treat—there's another British building, generally with a high-gable tin roof, around every corner, including the clock tower, the Boat Club, the Masonic Hall, the High Court, the library, and the Church of St. John of the Wilderness. Most of these buildings are, unfortunately, slowly tumbling down.

For a classic Indian experience of the coexistence of faiths, you can also visit the gurdwara (Sikh temple) that faces the Flats, or the mosque across from the flats.

At some point, do take a boat ride into the middle of this serene tal, or crater lake. Boatmen will approach you on the Mall; rates vary from Rs. 50 to Rs. 200 an hour, depending on the season, and you must bargain hard. A large number of boats are moored at Nainital Boat Club, next to the Flats, and you can organize a sailboat through the club.