Uttarakhand

Figuring prominently in the Hindu epics, Uttarakhand (formerly called Uttaranchal), is the mythological abode of the Hindu pantheon. Every year thousands of pilgrims make yatras (Hindu pilgrimages) to the mountain temples considered the homes of the Hindu gods Vishnu and Shiva and source of the holy Yamuna and Ganges rivers.

With more than 100 peaks towering above 20,000 feet, Uttarakhand's Garhwal mountains (especially Mt. Nanda Devi, at 26,056 feet) inspire climbers from all over the world. Trekkers are drawn to its natural sanctuaries, such as Nanda Devi (surrounding the peak of the same name) and the Valley of Flowers, strewn with blossoms and surrounded by glaciers and white-capped mountains.

In the Garhwal foothills, next to the Nepali border, is Uttarakhand's second major region, the Kumaon (pronounced koo-mow, to rhyme with "cow"). A relatively peaceful, underdeveloped corner of the country, the Kumaon is a wonderful place to begin a love affair with India. Ceded by Nepal to British India in 1815, it remains an area of forests, mountains, farmland, temples, and tigers. Life here is on a smaller scale—the topography is gentler, the forests thicker, and you can enjoy it all without the effort of a full-blown trek. Far from the frenzy of Garhwal's Hindu pilgrims and Mussoorie's honeymooners, the Kumaon has a relaxed vibe, and the animal-rich Corbett National Park makes it a must-see destination.

Coming to Uttarakhand in summer lets you avoid the crowds of foreigners that descend on Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh. Aside from a few routes frequented by Hindu and Sikh pilgrims (the road to Rishikesh can get very busy), you'll be alone with the villagers and shepherds. Given the great rafting on the headwaters of the Ganges and its tributaries, tour companies recommend combination trips, which include trekking and rafting in addition to, say, fishing and mountain biking.

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