Pondicherry

Pondicherry

If you want to take the pace of life down a few notches, this quiet, unusual town is ideal. A former French holding, Pondicherry still retains the flavor of its colonizers, who left as recently as 1954. From the red kepis (caps) of the policemen to street names like Rue Romain Rolland, the French influence is deep-rooted and pervasive, and many of the local people still speak and study the language. A Union Territory, Pondicherry is not beholden to Tamil Nadu laws, and you'll notice that liquor, among other things, is cheaper and more easily available as a result. In many ways the city (now also known as Puducherry) is a slice of provincial France on Indian soil.

There's little in the way of sights here, but the grid of streets that make up the old part of town are a stroller's paradise. This is especially true of the section to the east of the canal, which separated the French quarter from the rest of the town. The streets are lined with tall whitewashed villas swathed in bougainvillea, quaint churches and gardens, and little restaurants and cafés that serve French food and other dishes. Even if you don't enter the heritage buildings in the area, the sense of living history is palpable.

A stroll down coastal Goubert Avenue (also known as Beach Road) is quiet and pleasant, with minimal traffic. You'll find plenty of French tourists walking the beachfront in the evening, enjoying the feeling of holiday that manages to pervade Pondicherry throughout the year, even in the extreme heat of summer.

After your long walk in the hot sun, there are plenty of places to quench your thirst and soak in the flavors of France. Almost all the restaurants in this area are housed in colonial-style buildings with gardens and old-world cane furniture. As for the genuine, reasonably priced French food, plenty is to be had here. A visit to Pondicherry is incomplete without ordering bouillabaisse: the fish is local, and the soup rivals any you're likely to find in France.

While in the French quarter, make sure you see the round Douane (Customs) house on Goubert Avenue, and the samadhi (memorial) to Sri Aurobindo and the Mother in the ashram premises on Marine Street. The Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception on Mission Street across the canal dates to 1791 and has a rich interior. The Sri Aurobindo Handmade Paper Factory on S. V. Patel Road is also worth a visit if you're interested in seeing traditional paper-making.

At a Glance



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