Patan

Patan Review

Patan was capital of the Hindu Solanki dynasty from the 8th to 12th centuries. The ornate Rani-ka-Vav, built in 1050, is Gujarat's most stunning baoli (stepwell), set within enormous manicured gardens. A great flight of steps leads down into the well, halting at a covered colonnade just above the waterline; the walls are covered in fine sculptures of Vishnu, Ganesh, and other Hindu gods—the entire effect is captivating. The nearby Sahasra Linga Tank once housed a thousand lingas (stone icons of the god Shiva, usually characterized as phallic symbols). Little remains of the shrines today, but the outlines of the extensive water tanks are impressive.

On the way into town from the Sahasra Linga Tank, you can see the very modest workshop of the last makers of patola saris, who use a weaving technique called double ikat—threads used for both warp and weft are tie-dyed with costly organic dyes before they're woven into saris. Ikat is only produced in a few locations in the world, including Japan, Indonesia, Guatamala, Mexico, Uzbekistan as well as in the India states of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh. In the very uncommon double ikat variation, hand-dyed threads are precisely matched along their width as well as their length. Double ikat is produced in Indonesia as well as Patan, and it's believed that as the cloth traveled from Gujarat to Indonesia for the royal family there, the craft was passed on, too. It can take up to seven months for two weavers to produce a single 6-yard-long sari (they get orders one to two years in advance for wedding saris); the slightly blurred but intricate pattern recalls an impressionist painting. The prices match their efforts its rarity—a small stole which you can purchase on the spot will set you back Rs 25,000. Saris cost upwards of Rs. 75,000 and must be ordered. The process is fascinating to watch—ask for directions to the Salvi family's shop, Patolawala (Salviwado, Patolawala St. 2766/232-274 or 2766/231-369. www.patanpatola.com). The clan will be happy to demonstrate their art in detail if you are interested. They have plans to start a museum tracking ikat art through swatches of cloth. This humble family have won innumerable awards and traveled the world with their art, once holding an exhibition at the Smithsonian Insitute. The sleepy contemporary town of Patan is famous actually for its innumerable Jain temples. In its center is the attractive temple complex called Panchasara Parasvanath, known for the beauty of its idols. Next to the temple is a Jain Gyan Mandir, or temple of knowledge, with an important collection of illuminated manuscripts. Mornings from 8 to 10 and afternoons from 2 to 4, young monks come to study the manuscripts. The caretaker has a photo album of the collection, and upon request he'll bring out a few of the original works, which are masterpieces of miniature painting. Make a small donation in return for his help.